Adopted dog pulling / barking

Hi All,

This is my first post so sorry if this topic has been covered a lot!

I recently adopted a spaniel and I don't think he's been walked much on a lead and he hasn't really been socialised with other dogs. He pulls like a mad on the lead to the point where he is getting sores. I've tried a normal clip lead, a figure of 8 lead and 2 holties (one that clips on the back and one that clips on the side of the dog). The figure of 8 has given him a cut behind his ear and the holties have given him sores around his chest. Also, when we are out on a walk, he is fine walking with my friends dog but if another dog walker walks past he barks and goes for the other dog.

What do you think is the best way of tackling these two problems is when I am out walking?

Cheers

Hello,

Oh dear, a second hand dog and with second hand problems too, what a nightmare!

I have never yet seen a harness that will stop a dog from pulling.

If you think; horses,donkeys and cattle are put into harness to pull, huskies and sledge dogs are also put into harneses to pull. Animals "lean" into the harness with all their power to sucessfully pull.

But horses, donkeys,cows, sheep when wearing halters can all be lead easily.

Have you actually tried a genuine "Halti" this is a very gentle and loose fitting head collar for dogs. If fitted and used correctly the Halti is a wonderfull item to stop pulling. There will always be a lot of resistance and fighting the new object on your dogs head (I use size 2 for large cocker heads, sometimes size 1 for smaller dainty females). I am always prepared for a few sessions of resistance and fighting the object, but if the ring below the jaw is attached to both the lead and the dogs collar for securety the dog can resist for as long as it takes untill he accepts the new object on his head. Use this attached to the collar for a few weeks for security purposes. A genuine "Halti" if used correctly will turn the dogs head in towards the person leading him, therefore not allowing any straight forward power to start pulling. Never let your attached lead come across from the other side of the dog and over his shoulder, again you will loose proper controll if this happens. The reward for not fighting the object on the dogs head is a loose lead with no resistance for both the dog and yourself. When comfortably fitted the "Halti" is loose and the strap fitted behind the dogs head does tend to slip down the neck (quiet normal)

Many years ago I had a strong and powerfull cocker dog that always insisted in walking with his head down and nose to the ground (a working cocker) the lead was always permenantly tight (which is something I hate). The Halti was a fantastic answer to this problem and for the remainder of his life he walked loosely with his "loosely fitted" and comfortable Halti, I could walk him anywhere holding the lead between just my finger and thumb. My nightmare walks had be turned into pleasure walks.

A very usefull and positive product.

Halti, Gentle Leader, Dogalter are all good. The dog should be taught to wear it first though. You will also need a link to the collar as some dogs have been know to get out of head collars.

The problem with other dogs may be helped by a headcollar too. They do seem to calm some dogs. It is thought that it goes back to when the mother would cradle the pup's head gently when moving it from place to place.

Socialisation can be done with adult dogs but it does take time and commitment. Lots of advice on here but you need a dog to calm in order to learn. To induce calm you need to give the dog space from other dogs so that he can learn that they are safe to be around.

The bar open - bar closed technique works for some.

Every time another dog is spotted - the bar opens and you dispense high value treats until the dog goes away - the bar closes. Combined with using distance, to lessen the fear response, you should start to see the dog looking for treats when the other dog appears. Lots of praise and encouragement if he is good. Just ignore him if he loses it.

Try really hard not to tighten the lead when you see another dog. It is almost instinctive to do it but it sends vibes down the lead that we are not comfortable, either, with the approach of other dogs. This is the opposite of what you are trying to achieve. Try to organise it so that there is sufficient space for you to just lure your dog with treats without tightening the lead.

I have seen dogs improve dramatically when their owners just kept the lead loose all the time. It does not look good to other people but that is beside the point. You are training the dog of the future.

You might like to enrol the help of a good trainer from the Association of Pet Dog Trainers to help you. Make sure any trainer uses positive training methods (all APDT trainers do so) and not those used by fans of Cesar Milan.

Thanks both for the great advise!

I will try a genuine Halti in fact I was going to buy one but the lady in the shop recommend a figure of 8 lead instead. Would you recommend shortening his walks and the pace I walk him so he gets to learn that he needs to walk at my speed? I am worried that if he keeps pulling he will get more sores etc.

I have a feeling socialisation will be one of the hardest things to work on, but there are a few places near me where a lot of dog walkers go, so I can easily stand at a distance there and he will be able to see the other dogs. I was thinking maybe dispensing sausage or something a bit more high value than biscuits?

Thank you!!

Tony

Yes, or my liver cake recipe is 500g liver blitzed with an egg using a hand blender until totally smooth, stir in about 250g flour (I use rice flour as some dogs are gluten intolerant and it's just generally better) and if you want, a slosh of olive oil for the coat / cod liver oil for creaky joints. Put the mix in a small baking tray lined with parchment (should be 1 - 2 cm deep) and bake for about 15 mins until a knife comes out clean. When cold you can cut into pieces and freeze - it freezes in separate bits so you can defrost a handful at a time. That costs about a pound, lasts me for about a month, and has no sugar, salt, or rubbish. And I have never met a dog that doesn't love it!

Great idea Joanne thank you I will give that a try!! I will keep you all updated on progress!

I think it may be a good idea if you get him used to the Halti for a few days maybe a week to ten days in the house and around the garden.

Let him just wear it and you play with it while it is on him so that he gets the idea of wearing this new thing and then attach the lead after a few days, maybe even feed him with it on!

He should not pull with it on at all as his head will turn in towards you and prevent pulling, ther.

Do remember to use a connection to the collar as well, this will give you the confidence that if while he and you are learning how to walk with a Halti, and that if the halti should come off you still have controll of him and he can not get away.

With regard to how much exercise and speeds, if you do some good homework in doors and in the garden you should be able to go straight out for normal walks and normal speeds.Try to get him using it at home before you take him for walks, get it right first while at home and there should be no rubbing. (Don't forgrt loose fitting and never tight)

Once you have control I would walk and walk and walk. Praise all good behaviour and ignore all wrong behaviour. Use treats to lure him to walk nicely beside you so that one day you may want to go back to an ordinary collar.

Good idea about watching the other dogs from a distance. Always go at the dog's own pace. Only move slightly closer when he is completely comfortable to do so. Be prepared to back track. Some days will be better than others.

You don't say if your boy is neutered. If he is fearful of other dogs and still entire, I would leave him entire. Testosterone, though it brings its own problems with wandering and running off after bitches, gives a dog more confidence. Once he is more confident around other dogs you could think about neutering.