Is there a certain dog bed itself I could get like that as that just seems like something you out on their bed??
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5 month old still pooing and weeing in crate at night help!!!!!!
- Thread starter Dozza
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I will also add that, until any dog of whatever age is reliably housetrained, they shouldn't be given bedding, as it only provides a soft absorbent surface to pee into.
Their crate should have a bare floor - they are inside a house, in a temperature controlled setting; they won’t freeze, & dogs will quite happily lie on kitchen tile to sleep in very warm weather; hard surfaces are not a terrible suffering, for them, & a crate floor is much more forgiving than kitchen tile, or hardwood, both of which dogs sleep upon of their own free choice.
How large is the crate in relation to the dog?
EXTRA space is not desirable in a crate; if s/he can toilet in one area & sleep in another, it’s too big, & defeats the purpose of crating to help in house training.
The apropos size for housetraining is the same as the correct size for safe travel in a shipping crate: the smallest size that the dog can enter, U- turn, & exit from, is the right size for transport or housetraining.
Has he been seen by a vet, yet?
If so, what did the vet say?
A sudden lapse in housetraining that had been progressing steadily is definitely not a normal event, unless something has changed in the household or with the dog - new diet, new house schedule, changes in routine, new resident... ?
- terry
.
I will also add that, until any dog of whatever age is reliably housetrained, they shouldn't be given bedding, as it only provides a soft absorbent surface to pee into.
Their crate should have a bare floor - they are inside a house, in a temperature controlled setting; they won’t freeze, & dogs will quite happily lie on kitchen tile to sleep in very warm weather; hard surfaces are not a terrible suffering, for them, & a crate floor is much more forgiving than kitchen tile, or hardwood, both of which dogs sleep upon of their own free choice.
How large is the crate in relation to the dog?
EXTRA space is not desirable in a crate; if s/he can toilet in one area & sleep in another, it’s too big, & defeats the purpose of crating to help in house training.
The apropos size for housetraining is the same as the correct size for safe travel in a shipping crate: the smallest size that the dog can enter, U- turn, & exit from, is the right size for transport or housetraining.
Has he been seen by a vet, yet?
If so, what did the vet say?
A sudden lapse in housetraining that had been progressing steadily is definitely not a normal event, unless something has changed in the household or with the dog - new diet, new house schedule, changes in routine, new resident... ?
- terry
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I would disagree with that - I can't speak for more well-covered dogs, but for bony sighthounds, sleeping on hard floors for any length of time would not just be uncomfortable but could cause pressure sores.
Agree with the rest of the post though
One thing the OP could try is getting up in the middle of the night to take the dog out for toileting so he doesn't need to go in the night. It might take a bit of experimentation to work out the correct time - too early and he won't be ready to go, too late and the crate has already been soiled. But if you find that, say, taking him out at 3am works, then take him out then till he's regularly clean, then set the alarm 15 mins later each night until, eventually, he lasts overnight.
But first - vet check. Because if there is a health problem, no amount of training will work.
I personally think it could be the fact thay he had a few nights where he didnt do a poo before bed, we did try but he just didn't need one, then I think the 5 o clock wake up was just for the fact he had gone so long. I will go midway I'll put just a think blanket down and see how we get on. It's a hard one! I spoke to a lady on the park thus morning and she said her puppy went back on himself for a bit but then was fine. ="leashedForLife, post: 1181446, member: 90433"].
I will also add that, until any dog of whatever age is reliably housetrained, they shouldn't be given bedding, as it only provides a soft absorbent surface to pee into.
Their crate should have a bare floor - they are inside a house, in a temperature controlled setting; they won’t freeze, & dogs will quite happily lie on kitchen tile to sleep in very warm weather; hard surfaces are not a terrible suffering, for them, & a crate floor is much more forgiving than kitchen tile, or hardwood, both of which dogs sleep upon of their own free choice.
How large is the crate in relation to the dog?
EXTRA space is not desirable in a crate; if s/he can toilet in one area & sleep in another, it’s too big, & defeats the purpose of crating to help in house training.
The apropos size for housetraining is the same as the correct size for safe travel in a shipping crate: the smallest size that the dog can enter, U- turn, & exit from, is the right size for transport or housetraining.
Has he been seen by a vet, yet?
If so, what did the vet say?
A sudden lapse in housetraining that had been progressing steadily is definitely not a normal event, unless something has changed in the household or with the dog - new diet, new house schedule, changes in routine, new resident... ?
- terry
.[/QUOTE]
I will also add that, until any dog of whatever age is reliably housetrained, they shouldn't be given bedding, as it only provides a soft absorbent surface to pee into.
Their crate should have a bare floor - they are inside a house, in a temperature controlled setting; they won’t freeze, & dogs will quite happily lie on kitchen tile to sleep in very warm weather; hard surfaces are not a terrible suffering, for them, & a crate floor is much more forgiving than kitchen tile, or hardwood, both of which dogs sleep upon of their own free choice.
How large is the crate in relation to the dog?
EXTRA space is not desirable in a crate; if s/he can toilet in one area & sleep in another, it’s too big, & defeats the purpose of crating to help in house training.
The apropos size for housetraining is the same as the correct size for safe travel in a shipping crate: the smallest size that the dog can enter, U- turn, & exit from, is the right size for transport or housetraining.
Has he been seen by a vet, yet?
If so, what did the vet say?
A sudden lapse in housetraining that had been progressing steadily is definitely not a normal event, unless something has changed in the household or with the dog - new diet, new house schedule, changes in routine, new resident... ?
- terry
.[/QUOTE]
.
I will also add that, until any dog of whatever age is reliably housetrained, they shouldn't be given bedding, as it only provides a soft absorbent surface to pee into.
Their crate should have a bare floor - they are inside a house, in a temperature controlled setting; they won’t freeze, & dogs will quite happily lie on kitchen tile to sleep in very warm weather; hard surfaces are not a terrible suffering, for them, & a crate floor is much more forgiving than kitchen tile, or hardwood, both of which dogs sleep upon of their own free choice.
How large is the crate in relation to the dog?
EXTRA space is not desirable in a crate; if s/he can toilet in one area & sleep in another, it’s too big, & defeats the purpose of crating to help in house training.
The apropos size for housetraining is the same as the correct size for safe travel in a shipping crate: the smallest size that the dog can enter, U- turn, & exit from, is the right size for transport or housetraining.
Has he been seen by a vet, yet?
If so, what did the vet say?
A sudden lapse in housetraining that had been progressing steadily is definitely not a normal event, unless something has changed in the household or with the dog - new diet, new house schedule, changes in routine, new resident... ?
- terry
.
K
Kara 1
Guest
I definitely would not advise anyone to leave a pup or any dog in a crate with a hard base and no bedding .that is cruel no matter how warm they are ...house training is human error not the pups ....
Vet bedding is soft especially if you use several layers ...any liquid goes straight through and the top stays dry and it washes easier than blankets and dries very quickly and yes they can take steps back in house training
Vet bedding is soft especially if you use several layers ...any liquid goes straight through and the top stays dry and it washes easier than blankets and dries very quickly and yes they can take steps back in house training
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QUOTE, JudyN:
... I can't speak for more well-covered dogs, but for bony sighthounds, sleeping on hard floors for any length of time would not just be uncomfortable but could cause pressure sores.
Agree with the rest of the post though
One thing the OP could try is getting up in the middle of the night to take the dog out for toileting so he doesn't need to go in the night. It might take a bit of experimentation to work out the correct time - too early and he won't be ready to go, too late and the crate has already been soiled.
But if you find that, say, taking him out at 3am works, then take him out then till he's regularly clean, then set the alarm 15 mins later each night until, eventually, he lasts overnight.
But first - vet check. Because if there is a health problem, no amount of training will work.
_________________________
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Sorry, I forgot sighthounds, @JudyN , with their exceedingly bony protrusions & thin skins, my error.
They are not as popular here in the U-S as in the UK, where lurchers, Whippets, IGHs, Greyhounds, & even the giant sighthounds (Borzoi, Scots Deerhound, & Irish Wolfhound) enjoy relative popularity; aside from retired racers coming off the track, & in the 1990s a brief fad for IGHs among wealthy women, sighthounds are scarce.
My clients with sighthound pups or unhousetrained adoptees (such as the aforesaid retired racers) used rectangles of synthetic fleece, AKA vet bed, to cushion the crate for their angular thin-skinned dogs, & a single layer of vet fleece is easy to launder, not too costly to replace if a pup gnaws it, & provides sufficient padding for knobby joints.
Frequent washing keeps it fluffy & maintains its cushioning - using the same vet fleece unwashed for a week or more is not advised, it will flatten & fail to provide padding.
Having at least 3 of the right size is best, 1 in use, 1 for the washing cycle, & a spare in case of diarrhea / vomit, accidents, etc.
Thanks for the reminder,
Following on,
I very much agree that rising to an alarm & getting the dog out before they urgently void is a better plan, but “skip the vet” is a bad idea;
Training, alarms, & a new bedtime routine won’t fix a physical problem, & the sooner the vet sees the dog, the sooner U know if something is wrong,what it might be, & how to address it.
- t
... I can't speak for more well-covered dogs, but for bony sighthounds, sleeping on hard floors for any length of time would not just be uncomfortable but could cause pressure sores.
Agree with the rest of the post though
One thing the OP could try is getting up in the middle of the night to take the dog out for toileting so he doesn't need to go in the night. It might take a bit of experimentation to work out the correct time - too early and he won't be ready to go, too late and the crate has already been soiled.
But if you find that, say, taking him out at 3am works, then take him out then till he's regularly clean, then set the alarm 15 mins later each night until, eventually, he lasts overnight.
But first - vet check. Because if there is a health problem, no amount of training will work.
_________________________
.
Sorry, I forgot sighthounds, @JudyN , with their exceedingly bony protrusions & thin skins, my error.
They are not as popular here in the U-S as in the UK, where lurchers, Whippets, IGHs, Greyhounds, & even the giant sighthounds (Borzoi, Scots Deerhound, & Irish Wolfhound) enjoy relative popularity; aside from retired racers coming off the track, & in the 1990s a brief fad for IGHs among wealthy women, sighthounds are scarce.
My clients with sighthound pups or unhousetrained adoptees (such as the aforesaid retired racers) used rectangles of synthetic fleece, AKA vet bed, to cushion the crate for their angular thin-skinned dogs, & a single layer of vet fleece is easy to launder, not too costly to replace if a pup gnaws it, & provides sufficient padding for knobby joints.
Frequent washing keeps it fluffy & maintains its cushioning - using the same vet fleece unwashed for a week or more is not advised, it will flatten & fail to provide padding.
Having at least 3 of the right size is best, 1 in use, 1 for the washing cycle, & a spare in case of diarrhea / vomit, accidents, etc.
Thanks for the reminder,
Following on,
I very much agree that rising to an alarm & getting the dog out before they urgently void is a better plan, but “skip the vet” is a bad idea;
Training, alarms, & a new bedtime routine won’t fix a physical problem, & the sooner the vet sees the dog, the sooner U know if something is wrong,what it might be, & how to address it.
- t
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I know I am probably a bit behind with the times, but what is all this with 'crate training'? I am obviously aware it seems to be the thing to do but why? Do we not get a dog to simply be a part of the family anymore, why the segregation? I'm sure it used to be a case of get a pup, expect to spend a few weeks toilet training which included getting up in the night and occasional accidents on the paper that was kept near the door and it all seemed to work out fine, for me anyway, and the growing pup.. or was I just lucky?? Pups are hard work but incredibly amazing, but in my humble opinion, a crate creates a sense of being seperated and can make it harder..sorry..
I have to add though, in your case if the dog has suddenly changed behaviour, yes go to the vet just in case!
I have to add though, in your case if the dog has suddenly changed behaviour, yes go to the vet just in case!
We have worn him out today two long walks. I find if he's a tired out pup he's better through the night will see how we go ronht because it seems as though he's fine then just the odd night where he does it I think those nights are down to us.
K
Kara 1
Guest
Thats good news
So.... he went to sleep at 9 and I woke up at 5 he was still asleep so I went down at 6 he was still asleep so I took him out and straight away he did a wee and poo! Woohoooo!!!! Wether that's just fluke or I just need to make sure he's worn out before bed and make sure I time it so he has both before bedtime. I think if I hadn't have woken him at 6 and taken him out e may have just woken sooner or later and gone in his crate.
K
Kara 1
Guest
That is a long time 8 hrs for a pup to sleep no wonder he wants to go to toilet straight away ...good job for going down and letting him out ...keep up the good work
K
Kara 1
Guest
He will as he gets older ...
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QUOTE, "Dozza:
... I don't want (to forever have) him rely on me, every morning, to wake him up —-
I want eventually to lie in till 7:30, at the earliest? ... Haha
_______________________________________
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There is actually a handy rule for housetraining pups:
Age of the pup in months + 1 = max # of hours between scheduled potty trips
At 5-MO, I would expect Ur puppy to be able to wait no more than 6 hrs max between toilet trips.
If U go to bed at midnight & he goes out to toilet, ACCOMPANIED & on leash (so that U can see what & how much he produces), at the very last possible moment, he will need to go out to pee around 6-am, urgently.
If U want to lie-in till 7:30 or so, i’d set the alarm for 3-AM & take him out, then i’d go back to bed secure in the knowledge that has bladder was safe till 8 or 9-am.
It only takes 10-mins to get up, throw a robe or coat over PJs, slip on shoes, boots, or slippers, get the pup outside, emptied, & back in, tucked in their crate - & it’s worth every second to have them clean & dry, not fussing & miserable, nor dirty & learning bad habits.
I’ve done it many times, with pups & unhousetrained adults, too, & those few minutes mean the world to that dog. The brief interruption to my sleep is nothing, compared to the lifelong benefits over the 10 to 20-year lifespan of that pup.
- terry
.
... I don't want (to forever have) him rely on me, every morning, to wake him up —-
I want eventually to lie in till 7:30, at the earliest? ... Haha
_______________________________________
.
There is actually a handy rule for housetraining pups:
Age of the pup in months + 1 = max # of hours between scheduled potty trips
At 5-MO, I would expect Ur puppy to be able to wait no more than 6 hrs max between toilet trips.
If U go to bed at midnight & he goes out to toilet, ACCOMPANIED & on leash (so that U can see what & how much he produces), at the very last possible moment, he will need to go out to pee around 6-am, urgently.
If U want to lie-in till 7:30 or so, i’d set the alarm for 3-AM & take him out, then i’d go back to bed secure in the knowledge that has bladder was safe till 8 or 9-am.
It only takes 10-mins to get up, throw a robe or coat over PJs, slip on shoes, boots, or slippers, get the pup outside, emptied, & back in, tucked in their crate - & it’s worth every second to have them clean & dry, not fussing & miserable, nor dirty & learning bad habits.
I’ve done it many times, with pups & unhousetrained adults, too, & those few minutes mean the world to that dog. The brief interruption to my sleep is nothing, compared to the lifelong benefits over the 10 to 20-year lifespan of that pup.
- terry
.
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