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Bio-sensor Puppy Stimulatin

Eceni

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Dear all,

While exploring the ways of clicker training pups, I came across this site:

Clicker Puppy

Amongst all the rest of the stuff (most of which is only interesting if you're a clicker trainer, I think) was a bit on the "Bio-Sensor" method of stimulating neonatal pups. This is done in the first days of life and, for those who don't want to trawl through the site, I'll replicate the cogent bits in blue below.

It seems fascinating, if very mechanistic and I wondered

a) if anyone here is using it?

b) if any of our American posters (I'm thinking particularly of Karen of SeaSpotRun) knows if it's in widespread use in the US

c) if anyone who has used it on either side of the Atlantic has any experience of whether it genuinely makes a difference. Just because the military uses it doesn't convince me much and I'm interested in where they find their science - how, for instance, one might measure an 'increased strength' of adrenal glands? (? their little muscles squeeze harder?!? - the can't, no muscles, so I'm wondering if there's a higher circulating adreno-cortical base level, or a higher output when under stress, or something else?)

I have a clicker-friend visiting so haven't done huge amounts of googling, and in any case, am more interested in the personal experiences - and figured they'd be here if anywhere

This is the relevant bit:

October 12, 2001

 

We have adopted the Bio Sensor method to start our new pups off. The U.S. Military in their canine program developed a method that still serves as a guide to what works. In an effort to improve the performance of dogs used for military purposes, a program called "Bio Sensor" was developed. Later, it became known to the public as the "Super Dog" Program. Based on years of research, the military learned that early neurological stimulation exercises could have important and lasting effects. Their studies confirmed that there are specific time periods early in life when neurological stimulation has optimum results. The first period involves a window of time that begins at the third day of life and lasts until the sixteenth day. It is believed that because this interval of time is a period of rapid neurological growth and development, and therefore is of great importance to the individual.

 

The "Bio Sensor" program was also concerned with early neurological stimulation in order to give the dog a superior advantage. Its development utilized six exercises, which were designed to stimulate the neurological system. Each workout involved handling puppies once each day. The workouts required handling them one at a time while performing a series of five exercises. Listed in nor order of preference the handler starts with one put and stimulates it using each of the five exercises. The handler completes the series from beginning to end before starting with the next pup. The handling of each pup once per day involves the following exercises:

 

1. Tactile stimulation -- holding the pup in one hand, the handler gently stimulates (tickles) the pup between the toes on any one foot using a Q-tip. It is not necessary to see that the pup is feeling the tickle. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds.

2. Head held erect -- using both hands, the pup is held perpendicular to the ground, (straight up), so that its head is directly above its tail. This is an upwards position. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds

3. Head pointed down -- holding the pup firmly with both hands the head is reversed and is pointed downward so that it is pointing towards the ground. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds

4. Supine position -- hold the pup so that its back is resting in the palm of both hands with its muzzle facing the ceiling. The pup while on its back is allowed to sleep struggle. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds.

5. Thermal stimulation -- use a damp towel that has been cooled in a refrigerator for at least five minutes. Place the pup on the towel, feet down. Do not restrain it from moving. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds.

 

These five exercises will produce neurological stimulations, none of which naturally occur during this early period of life. Experience shows that sometimes pups will resist these exercises, others will appear unconcerned. In either case a caution is offered to those who plan to use them. Do not repeat them more than once per day and do not extend the time beyond that recommended for each exercise. Over stimulation of the neurological system can have adverse and detrimental results.

 

These exercises impact the neurological system by kicking it into action earlier than would be normally expected. The result being an increased capacity that later will help to make the difference in its performance. Those who play with their pups and routinely handle them should continue to do so because the neurological exercises are not substitutions for routine handling, play socialization or bonding.

 

Five benefits have been observed in canines that were exposed to the Bio Sensor stimulation exercises:

 

* Improved cardio vascular performance (heart rate)

* Stronger heart beats

* Stronger adrenal glands

* More tolerance to stress

* Greater resistance to disease

 

In tests of learning, stimulated pups were found to be more active and were more exploratory than their non- stimulated littermates over which they were dominant in competitive situations.

thanks all

Manda (edited in an effort to re-spell the title - failed - sorry)
 
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I've read about this a few times before. Carman Battaglia (Breeding Better Dogs) has a piece about it here DEVELOPING HIGH ACHIEVERS on his website.
 
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Well, I handle my puppies a lot from birth so will touch toes (not with a Qtip though) etc and hold them in the upright and supine positions but why would you want to hold a puppy upside down or put it on a cold damp towel??? Sounds positively wicked to me!!!
 
Karen (seaspotrun) is on holiday with her family at the beach and has limited internet access (if any!) for a few more days.

I immediately thought of a litter that was born to a breeder here in the US that used those techniques. She outlined the puppy plan and her actual rearing log on her website. I thought it might be of interest to you.

GraceGift Whippets 2003 Litter

Kristen
 
Well as my lot are 11 days and i handle them every day even if its just to weigh them I will tickel there toes. I was reading on another site about very young pups and it was saying simaler things to this but said daly weighing or puting on a table top thats cool will coues miled stress to the pups whitch is actuly a good thing espicaly for show and working dogs as it acustomes them to it for futer life not know how true it is but i recon most show and working dogs are handled every day and weighed aswell. I will see if I can fined the site again
 
Scudder said:
Karen (seaspotrun) is on holiday with her family at the beach and has limited internet access (if any!) for a few more days.
I immediately thought of a litter that was born to a breeder here in the US that used those techniques. She outlined the puppy plan and her actual rearing log on her website. I thought it might be of interest to you.

GraceGift Whippets 2003 Litter

Kristen


That is really interesting, thankyou Kirsten for posting it....I like to read about how other breeders rear & socialise their puppies.
 
Its pretty obvious that the richer an environment in terms of sensory input and experience puppies have, the better equipped they'll be to deal with new experiences later on. Another really interesting book to read is the classic behaviour study book - Genetics and the Social Behaviour of the Dog by Scott and Fuller. The study was done in the sixties but is still full of good stuff about how early environment and experiences affects dogs.

Genetics and Social Behaviour of the Dog
 
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05whippet said:
That is really interesting, thankyou Kirsten for posting it....I like to read about how other breeders rear & socialise their puppies.
I thought it was a very interesting read when she first had the litter. Normally you don't see such a scientific approach to raising puppies, but obviously she did something right as the dogs have gone on to be very successful in several sports. I'm not sure I would have separated my puppies into 2 groups, but I do like her thoughts on separating littermates. I made that mistake in my 2nd litter and had issues when I went to place one who was an older puppy.

I handle my pups a lot when they are very young - pick them up, turn them over, soft petting, etc... When they are 3 weeks, they move into a puppy "playpen" in my dog room that has cat tunnels, a variety of surfaces (carpet, plastic, rubber) and things to climb on, like overturned boxes. I like things that move or make noise. They also have a small crate with no door in the pen to start early crate training.

I think the more you can do with your pups to get them ready for the "real world" before they go to pet homes, the better.

I do early crate training and my pups sleep in their own crates at night by 7 weeks. They go on a lot of car rides starting at 4 weeks to try to combat motion sickness later on. They get lots of one on one play time and learn its ok to be alone. They are used to being handled and bounced around.

When Karen gets back online, I hope she will share her thoughts on Volhard temperament testing that she does with all of her litters.

Kristen
 
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Scudder said:
05whippet said:
That is really interesting, thankyou Kirsten for posting it....I like to read about how other breeders rear & socialise their puppies.
I thought it was a very interesting read when she first had the litter. Normally you don't see such a scientific approach to raising puppies, but obviously she did something right as the dogs have gone on to be very successful in several sports. I'm not sure I would have separated my puppies into 2 groups, but I do like her thoughts on separating littermates. I made that mistake in my 2nd litter and had issues when I went to place one who was an older puppy.

I handle my pups a lot when they are very young - pick them up, turn them over, soft petting, etc... When they are 3 weeks, they move into a puppy "playpen" in my dog room that has cat tunnels, a variety of surfaces (carpet, plastic, rubber) and things to climb on, like overturned boxes. I like things that move or make noise. They also have a small crate with no door in the pen to start early crate training.

I think the more you can do with your pups to get them ready for the "real world" before they go to pet homes, the better.

I do early crate training and my pups sleep in their own crates at night by 7 weeks. They go on a lot of car rides starting at 4 weeks to try to combat motion sickness later on. They get lots of one on one play time and learn its ok to be alone. They are used to being handled and bounced around.

When Karen gets back online, I hope she will share her thoughts on Volhard temperament testing that she does with all of her litters.

Kristen

Again I thankyou Kirsten...that is another very interesting method...actually reading through it I realise that we do a lot of those things with our puppies per the norm and never really thought about it before.
 
Judy said:
Its pretty obvious that the richer an environment in terms of sensory input and experience puppies have, the better equipped they'll be to deal with new experiences later on.  Another really interesting book to read is the classic behaviour study book - Genetics and the Social Behaviour of the Dog by Scott and Fuller. The study was done in the sixties but is still full of good stuff about how early environment and experiences affects dogs.
Genetics and Social Behaviour of the Dog

And thankyou too Judy...I read the review and although it does'nt relay much I think the book looks like one that all dog breeders should have on their bookshelf :thumbsup:
 
In tests of learning, stimulated pups were found to be more active and were more exploratory than their non- stimulated littermates over which they were dominant in competitive situations.
It's too late at night here for me to read all the linked articles, but if my pups were anymore active and exploratory I think I run away from home :lol: We are now on plan C as far as puppy pens go = that is the 4 ft high one, and the other day they managed to open the gate somehow. :sweating: :lol:
 
Seraphina said:
In tests of learning, stimulated pups were found to be more active and were more exploratory than their non- stimulated littermates over which they were dominant in competitive situations.
It's too late at night here for me to read all the linked articles, but if my pups were anymore active and exploratory I think I run away from home :lol: We are now on plan C as far as puppy pens go = that is the 4 ft high one, and the other day they managed to open the gate somehow. :sweating: :lol:

Hmmm...I think your lot sound identical to mine,I am beginning to think mine are half kangaroo :wacko: ..I've never seen pups that can scale fences quite so well,we have now "upped" the fence to 6ft and one of them especially takes great pleasure in proving to us that she can still bounce over it like fun! Looks like yours are headng the same way Seraphina....heaven help you is all I can say :lol: :teehee:
 
05whippet said:
Seraphina said:
In tests of learning, stimulated pups were found to be more active and were more exploratory than their non- stimulated littermates over which they were dominant in competitive situations.
It's too late at night here for me to read all the linked articles, but if my pups were anymore active and exploratory I think I run away from home :lol: We are now on plan C as far as puppy pens go = that is the 4 ft high one, and the other day they managed to open the gate somehow. :sweating: :lol:

Hmmm...I think your lot sound identical to mine,I am beginning to think mine are half kangaroo :wacko: ..I've never seen pups that can scale fences quite so well,we have now "upped" the fence to 6ft and one of them especially takes great pleasure in proving to us that she can still bounce over it like fun! Looks like yours are headng the same way Seraphina....heaven help you is all I can say :lol: :teehee:

Master Austyn at 3mths of age thinks he is a spider - he climbs up the fence like a pro, however, he did meet a nasty piece of white tape that gave him a crack (w00t) He fell down to the ground, shook his head & did it again :blink: After 3 zaps from the electric fence he decided to get his teddy & scragg it till the stuffing fell out :wub: :wub: Our guys get lots of handling from the minute they are born... impossible to keep 8 & 10yr olds away from the whelping box, and of course our watch lots of TV the minute their eyes are open - generally some girly programme with lots of squeals and every second word being "like" - Hannah Montana has a lot to answer for (w00t)
 
All my litters are born and live for their first 2-3 weeks in the room I spend most of my days in. For the first week or so I even sleep in the same room. When they start moving around they go into the puppy room, which has washable floors, and soon they are allowed to explore the garden, which is always (wherever we lived) rather overground adventure land. I also handle the pups a lot on daily bases, and when the children were little, they would spend lot of time in the whelping box.

I have certainly noticed that a puppy I have, for one reason or other, spent more time handling was soon "different". The most remarkable example was a little blue Dane bitch, one from the litter of 15 I had in 1976. Being such a big litter there was so much poo, that the bitch could not keep up and i could not keep up and so when the pups were about 3 weeks I put a puppy pen out on the lawn and moved it few time a day. I do not know what happened but the little girl cut her foot on something. The only way to keep it clean was to bring her in the house and keep her with me for 4-5 days. She slept with me and at the age of not quite 4 weeks would slide of the bed, I could hear her little claws tapping on the wooden floors as she walked to the french doors, then she would go across the wide veranda, and jump down the 6" step to do wee on the grass. Then she would race in and cry for me to lift her back to bed.

When her foot healed and I tried to put her back with the pups she was not going to have a bar of it. She climbed over any fence, any barrier I put across the french doors to stop the 15 pups from wrecking havoc in the house when they were let loose in the garden. She was the smallest one but most clever and nimble. But it was not just that she could do things physically the others could not, she was just so clever.

I had a heavy duty mesh barrier that I hung across the french doors. She just went over, so I hung it bit higher, about 2" of the ground. But I did it slightly unevenly. none of the pups noticed on side is bit lower (1/2") and tried to, quite unsuccessfully scramble over in the middle. The little girl just stepped back, sat down and studied the situation with quite amazing concentration. She looked at the top of the barrier from left to right and back, you could see it in her eyes how she is plotting something. All of the suddenly, she saw it; the left side was lower! She was hardly 5 weeks old. Like a flash she was in the left corner, hooked her little claws to the top of the 2ft. high barrier, climbed up, plonked down on the other side, and that was beginning of life long struggle to keep her confined and in the line. The only way to keep her from escaping was a kennel run with roof and padlock. But even then I always worried what she may be up to when she was not with me.

She never stopped amazing me with her cleverness; like systematically killing any hen that wondered in from my neighbors, while never chasing ours (they actually ate from her dish and she did not mind). All the hens were white like ours, I could not tell them apart, but she knew. She was absolutely amazing, she had a mind of her own, but she was such a hard work.

I do not want super intelligent dog, i just want one that is obedient and does not take too much initiative :)
 
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So interesting Lida! My 2 legged kids "pick" their favourites from birth & you can gaurantee that the chosen ones are the ones who endure hours of watching tv in the lap of luxury on a childs chest or in their sweatshirt (w00t)

They too are the ones who "love to have time out" in the same childs bedroom (heelloooooo.. they can barely walk let alone make life decsions like this :wub: ) They are also the ones that like to do homework on the said childs knee :wub: , they like to be wrenched from their snuggly box to watch their mistresses play netball in the freezing cold... :unsure: this clearly is the point of view given from the children (w00t)

And when the "chosen" ones grow up, you can guarantee they are the brats of the litter (w00t) They scream if you don't attend to them IMMEDIATELY :( They are so comfortable in their own skin that when you pick then up, they bite your wrist coz you are just a play thing just like the kids :p And they make the best show dogs :thumbsup: Cos in their world, their shite don't stink, it is purely deposited for the lower ranks to nibble on (w00t) 8 :blink:
 
fallenangel said:
Well as my lot are 11 days  and i handle them every day even if its just to weigh them I will tickel there toes. I was reading on another site about very young pups and it was saying simaler things to this but said daly weighing or puting on a table top thats cool will coues miled stress to the pups whitch is actuly a good thing espicaly for show and working dogs as it acustomes them to  it for futer life not know how true it is  but i recon most show and working dogs are handled every day and weighed aswell. I will see if I can fined the site again

I think your daily handling sounds like what the opening post was suggesting - putting a puppy on scales for a few seconds is probably no different to putting them on a cold towel for a few seconds :wacko:

You breeders are all puppy stimulating experts without even realising it :thumbsup: :lol:
 
doris said:
I think your daily handling sounds like what the opening post was suggesting -
It would also go long way towards explaining what I have heard people to claim, that runt of the litter end up the most amazing clever dogs. Assuming that they were always handled more as the breeder would be trying to help them along. Certainly my Seraphina, the Borzoi I hand reared, was another example of a super intelligent dog. She thought she was human. :)
 
I have heard of the "Super Puppy" protocol and I do know of a few US Whippet breeders who have begun to use it.

I pretty much do many of those things naturally, and always have. My mother came into dogs in the period of "don't touch the newborns too much, it's too stressful for them to be handled so just leave them with their dam and let her do most of the work of stimulating them" school of thought being prevalent. But she never really was one to do something just because someone told her it was a good idea and her instincts were to handle the pups a lot and let us children do the same (these weren't Whippets back then). All our dogs are very well known for their people-sociable personalities, and even for the ease of turning them over on their backs and carrying them around like babies (IOW, they are very trusting animals) and mother feels that much of this has to do with the early stimulation they receive.

I think it is really important to touch their feet and paws a lot--especially Whippets who can be a bugger to cut the nails on, and I tend to spend a lot of time just rubbing and massaging their cute little pink paws from the first day of their lives. I also pick them up and mess them about quite a bit, even stuffing them down in bathrobe pockets and letting them ride around there. I think that there may very well be something to the more rigorous and systematic stimulation protocol, but frankly, I don't think I need my Whippets to be any more intelligent and stimulated than they already are. They are difficult enough to outsmart as it is.

I do use the Volhard test at 7 weeks to help match pups to homes and venues. I have been successful identifying those Whippets who will be suited for competition obedience, those who have more ring attitude naturally, and those who are more retiring or stubborn in disposition. It helps me to find puppies which are better for homes with small children and identify puppies who are NOT entry-level Whippets for first-time dog owners, being very high drive and more dominant in nature.

I have my own arcane way of scoring it, which isn't identical to the Volhardt's system, but I have now done over 35 Whippet littesr of my own and other people's over the last 20 years and I can definitely tell by how a puppy tests out if it will be a good fit in certain situations. I have even been known to put a dog with great conformation body in a companion home because his temperament test showed me, based on past experience, that he would NOT have a conformation mind. It's just too hard to show and win with a Whippet in the USA who is sour and unanimated in the show ring. It used to be you could jolly around a deadhead Whippet who never used his ears and if he was good enough, you could finish him, but I would say those days are past. Most US show Whippets, to be successful, have a high degree of showmanship and enjoy being in the ring. I still get throwbacks from time to time to the old-style dogs who would roll their eyes back in their head and spit out the bait. :eek:
 

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