walking my dog is a nightmare

[Gerryg]

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i got my first puppy( shitzu) at the end of april....he is now 8 months old and walking him has become a nightmare due to the fact he is distracted by just about everything when we are out..if he sees someone walking down the street he just sits down and refuses to move until they have disappeared out of site......he refuses to go the way i want him to most of the time and i dont like dragging him in his harness, as for interacting with other dogs he just goes mental with excitement and he gets tangled up between ther owners legs/leads you name it...its got to the point where i try not to let him go near other dogs to avoid these scenarios...when he sees dogs approaching in the park he just sits down and waits for them or runs at them straight away...i cant even think about letting him offlead as he doesnt even come back to me when he is on the stretch lead...have tried to get him to come back to me or walk using treats but this doesnt really stop him from being distractd plus i realise this is a bad habit to get into...i am trying to build up a relationship with him whilst out walking to get him to do what he is told but its getting worse...my wife gets treated the exact same way as does my daughter when they are walking him...any helpful info would be really appreciated

 

[Rehab Kennels]

Unknown to you your doing the two biggest mistakes that owners make with puppies and the main reason for why peoples now grown up into adult- dogs come to my rehab kennels! That is 1st, to deliberately avoid other dogs when the dog in question is being friendly, over excited or not it's still a happy, positive and friendly interaction this is why it's huge mistake. 2nd is when your pup stops like that on walks not showing meaningful confident leadership, instead you walk back to her, which to her is saying she is a good girl and why she still does it! You dont have to drag her I have one simple technique that will stop that in 2/3 walks...

The dog knows he's being friendly and yes he may be over excited and interacting all wrong but that is probably because you got him between 6 + 8wks old, am I right to assume that? Puppies that leave there mother before 10wks of age (really pups should stay until 12wks old) miss out on the most crucial learning stage from there mum of there young lives! Between 7 and 11wks old there mum teaches them the last thing she does before kicking them out on there own and thats social skills, body language and confidence to go there own way. Which now because of that crucial stage missed you are now seeing the consequences of it! You story is identical the pups behaviour is identical and it's so common these days, I see it day in day out 365 days a year. Every dog I have in with these issues, have the same beginning... being taking away from mum to soon! Separation anxiety is another issue that stems from this to!

However what is done is done you can't take her back to mum so your going to have to work hard to resolve this, it will be repetitive, tedious in some parts but I promise you if you don't change the way your doing things now the dog will become one of those dogs that barks and goes for every dog and is aggressive, and who will likely get separation anxiety along with dominant behaviour over you!

Ill help you if you need me too, but this has already been a long reply so start a conversation with me and I will advise you on exactly what to do so you have a happy, behaved, balanced pup as well as in adulthood.

 

[JudyN]

Rehab Kennel's post does sugget they are using an outmoded and disproven dominance-based approach to dog training. It's a shame they don't share their methods openly though.

As he's so easily distracted, I suggest that rather than trying to 'train' good lead walking on walks where you see other dogs, people, etc., you work on it at home, in the garden, in places where there are no distractions. Have a look on Youtube for lead walking videos by Kikopup - they should help. Also practise recall in these places - if your dog hasn't got recall and walking firmly nailed in these places, he's not going to listen, or learn, when he's in a very distracting environment. Then work up to more distracting environments, always rewarding for when he focuses on you, and/or shows calmness.

On actual walks, I would avoid letting your dog approach other dogs. At the moment, when he sees a dog his brain is thinking FUN FUN FUN, and this overrides everything. Ideally you want YOU to be more interesting than other dogs. Are there any toys that he likes, such as a squeaky ball? If so, that might distract him from the other dogs. You want him to realise that when he sees a dog, this doesn't mean that he's going to get to play with it, so he doesn't get so worked up - and that good things result from focusing on you, either calmly or with a squeaky ball or whatever float his boat.

When he won't go the way you want him to go, you have two choices. Either let him decide where to walk, so you can both enjoy your walk together (could be useful while you're working on getting him to focus on you more), or, when he refuses to walk the way you want him to go, wait him out. Just stand there calmly, and wait for him to realise that either he goes your way or he will sit there for eternity. Take a book... This method worked well for me, and my dog came to recognise that when I stood with my back to him at the far end of the lead, he may as well follow because he wasn't getting his way.

Hopefully others will have some more good advice.

 

[JoanneF]

As above. It isn't any more appropriate for adult dogs to be best friends with every dog they meet than it would be for you to enthusiastically hug every stranger you meet.

But, as Judy said, you need to work on making you the most exciting thing in his life, and you can only start that when you are more exciting, i.e. when there aren't more exciting things around.

I firmly believe all training is founded in engagement. If your dog isn't engaged with you, you don't have his attention for training. So I would start rewarding every voluntary engagement he offers. If he looks at you, tell him ”good boy” and reward with a tiny treat or toy. If he is food motivated you could use normal food.

That encourages him to check in with you regularly and makes you the source of good things.

I think he might also benefit from impulse control. This video might be helpful.

 

[Hemlock]

It's all perfectly do-able without confrontation, so take heart! Remember he is young, just about to enter adolescence when he (and every other adolescent) tests boundaries, and it does come to an end, and you will have a dog that is a delight to walk. At the moment, it's a child-in-toyshop experience and that "child" doesn't speak human language. There's no need for confrontation. Dogs do what works. If he wants to sit and watch something, that's okay. When the "something" has moved on, so can you. Avoid over-stimulating situations such as the park full of dogs. That's not going to help you (sweetshop again) and it's likely to create bad dog manners. Instead, go to places where you and he can enjoy the walk without undue stress. Let him stop and sniff, but control it by watching his body-language that says he wants to sniff there, putting it on cue e.g. saying "go sniff" then when he has sniffed and looks up at you, catch the look, say something like "let's go" offer a TINY treat and you can walk on together. JudyN has managed a very difficult dog that would not have tolerated bullying, and both she and JoanneF have a lot of experience. You and he will both enjoy your walks in time, you haven't caused this, neither you nor your dog is at fault, it's just a glitsch, and there are plenty of those in dog ownership.

 

[Gerryg]

thanks everybody for your very helpful replies, i feelguilty when i dont let my wee dog play with other dogs , as a poster said he just sees FUN FUN FUN...i am certainly no expert as this is my first dog and i am glad that it may not be my fault he is liek this ...he ha a favourite squeaky toy which i am going to try him with ...it has to be an mprovement , it cant be any worse...thanks again

 

[Gerryg]

have just came back in from a wal and i took his favourite squeaky ball with me...and there was a big difference ,i kept him away from other dogs and when he was distracted i squeezed the the toy and it immediately got his attention...and when we had a bit of the park to ourselves i threw the ball which he chased dow n on numerous occasions( i still dare not let him offlead) but tis was a great improvement already,he was ebgaging with me more because he realised it might be quite fun to chase the ball...we have enclosed dog fields which you can pay for to let him offlead and run free chasing squeakt ball so this may be the next step in building up a one to one...thanks again ...small steps and all that

 

[JoanneF]

That reminded me - walks are not just for walking. Do stuff. Play, hunt the hidden treat, hide and seek, more play - you get the idea.

 

[JudyN]

Oh that's brilliant Keep it up - it really is worth making him see you as the exciting bit of the walk, not other dogs, and this will obviously help with recall (in the long run!).

 

[Hemlock]

Well done!

To further help, I suggest you have a toy that only comes out on walks. That makes it even more enticing. You can have a series of toys, take a different one each time you go out, then you are always the biggest source of interest.

 

[Karen Eckersall]

Hi
I have just read the thread. So glad you have found a key to keeping your dog’s attention. The very first thing I train my dogs to do is “Watch me” so when out & about if a situation arises that could cause over excitement I ask Rosie to watch me until whatever is distracting her goes or she is calm. Rosie is a 40kilo GSD in training as a rescue adult age 6, I’m lucky we are very rural so unless we head into town not many dog distractions…! Good luck patience & positive reinforcement & your pup will be fine.

 

[Gerryg]

thanks again.....have kept using squeaky ball and he runs after it but feel as though novelty is wearing off with him slightly...definitely better than it was but also feel i have to use slightly secluded areas as if i am not throwing ball for him then he is continually looking around for other distractions/dogs and only when i throw the ball does he chase it down and once that is done if i dont throw it right away again he is trying to find something else...as regards to saying "watch me" there are simpy too many distractions for that to work alongside the fact him being a young pup probably has a lot to do with it as well, thanks again for all your different experiences it is continually helpful

 

[JudyN]

If you have to use more secluded spots, that's fine - he will eventually stop looking for distractions and realise that you're the most important thing around, even when not playing squeaky ball. And if the distracting thing is a leaf, that's fine too - let him investigate it, as you would if you were on a walk with a toddler. Walks don't have to be about 'walking' at all. 'Watch' may work when he's more mature and realised that there really is nothing that interesting around, but I wouldn't push it - sometimes he'll be much calmer once he's had a good look at the potentially interesting object and realised it's not that interesting after all.

Plenty of owners have to limit the areas they walk their dogs for a number of reasons, either on a short-term basis or permanently. Yes, it would be lovely to enjoy a pub, a beach or wherever with your dog, but sometimes it just doesn't work out.

 

[Robins mum]

i got my first puppy( shitzu) at the end of april....he is now 8 months old and walking him has become a nightmare due to the fact he is distracted by just about everything when we are out..if he sees someone walking down the street he just sits down and refuses to move until they have disappeared out of site......he refuses to go the way i want him to most of the time and i dont like dragging him in his harness, as for interacting with other dogs he just goes mental with excitement and he gets tangled up between ther owners legs/leads you name it...its got to the point where i try not to let him go near other dogs to avoid these scenarios...when he sees dogs approaching in the park he just sits down and waits for them or runs at them straight away...i cant even think about letting him offlead as he doesnt even come back to me when he is on the stretch lead...have tried to get him to come back to me or walk using treats but this doesnt really stop him from being distractd plus i realise this is a bad habit to get into...i am trying to build up a relationship with him whilst out walking to get him to do what he is told but its getting worse...my wife gets treated the exact same way as does my daughter when they are walking him...any helpful info would be really appreciated

Hi there! I agree with Judy N for sure I can feel for you as my dog is playful too! Whose walk is it though? Yours, or your dogs?

 

[CoCo2014]

Have you been actively training your puppy at a training class ?

Inexperienced owners frequently make the mistake of thinking that pet training classes are for training dogs, they're not they are for teaching new puppy/dog owners how to train their dogs & good ones don't use force or harsh methods. They are also controlled so your puppy can meet other dogs in a safe environs.
I teach my dogs off lead at home to pay attention to me & to walk close to me & reward them when they present the behaviour I want.

 

[Hemlock]

Just to add that if you go the training class route, go to the class without your dog (a good idea to attend different ones with different venues and instructors) to observe the teaching methods and watch the dogs and owners. Ask yourself if you want your dog to do those things at all, to do them in that way, to look like that (happy, confused, cowed) while they are doing those things. There are some super trainers about, but also some very didactic old-fashioned ones using outdated methods. Also avoid any class where whole mobs of dogs are released together to "play" because some dogs will bully and some will be bullied. It's fine when astute instructors allow 2 carefully assessed dogs off-lead at a time to interact under careful supervision. Research is never wasted.

 

[Robins mum]

thanks everybody for your very helpful replies, i feelguilty when i dont let my wee dog play with other dogs , as a poster said he just sees FUN FUN FUN...i am certainly no expert as this is my first dog and i am glad that it may not be my fault he is liek this ...he ha a favourite squeaky toy which i am going to try him with ...it has to be an mprovement , it cant be any worse...thanks again

Sounds like this doggy has a wonderful family! I think you are going to do just great! Well done!

 

[Robins mum]

Have you been actively training your puppy at a training class ?

Inexperienced owners frequently make the mistake of thinking that pet training classes are for training dogs, they're not they are for teaching new puppy/dog owners how to train their dogs & good ones don't use force or harsh methods. They are also controlled so your puppy can meet other dogs in a safe environs.
I teach my dogs off lead at home to pay attention to me & to walk close to me & reward them when they present the behaviour I want.

Would be interesting to see if you would have had any luck with Robin in the early days! I had some difficulties with being more interesting than everything else! LOL!

 

[Gerryg]

a wee update ......the squaky ball i use in the park is good for a while as he runs after it but i find i havr to use it sparingly as h gets fed up quite quickly, again if he sees other dogs then they immediately become the main attraction....i have tried walking him more out on the street now after he has done his business n the park...i squeeze the ball to gain his attention on the street if he is distracted but have been lss successful with this...he walks fine until a distraction appears, this could be literally anything from someone going into their car(he will sit down and watch until the car drives away) aperson walking on the other side of the road( he will stop and sit down and watch till they disappear into distance)...the other morning the big bin lorry with its noise and flashing lights was out in the neighbourhood...again nothing could stop him from sitting down and watching and waiting.....the bottom line is that i have to lift him at least a couple of times when i am out to get him away from the distraction he wont move from which as you can imagine leads to slightly frustrating times

 

[Robins mum]

a wee update ......the squaky ball i use in the park is good for a while as he runs after it but i find i havr to use it sparingly as h gets fed up quite quickly, again if he sees other dogs then they immediately become the main attraction....i have tried walking him more out on the street now after he has done his business n the park...i squeeze the ball to gain his attention on the street if he is distracted but have been lss successful with this...he walks fine until a distraction appears, this could be literally anything from someone going into their car(he will sit down and watch until the car drives away) aperson walking on the other side of the road( he will stop and sit down and watch till they disappear into distance)...the other morning the big bin lorry with its noise and flashing lights was out in the neighbourhood...again nothing could stop him from sitting down and watching and waiting.....the bottom line is that i have to lift him at least a couple of times when i am out to get him away from the distraction he wont move from which as you can imagine leads to slightly frustrating times

Think yourself VERY lucky you CAN lift your dog! Mine is only just getting some sense and he is two and a half! I feel your pain, but really? Its a dog! They are not born knowing they are going to spend the rest of their lives doing exactly what they are told 24/7! Keep him safe, keep him happy, warm,full, and cuddled and in a few more months you will be wondering what you were worrying about!