After months and months of trying to train ' nice' lead walking - ive taken loads of advice and tried various methods but I've had to admit defeat and bought a halti for Evie. Well it really is magic! Walking with her is now a pleasure and I'm prepared to take her on trips which I know will involve significant lead walking (We live in a very rural location so lots of off lead walking available). I've no idea how it works and doesn't seem to cause her any great discomfort so am hoping that It isn't unkind. I'm also really hoping that we will be able to do away with eventually either when she's forgotten about pulling or is older and more sensible! (She's now nearly 14 months). I do feel a bit of a failure but I don't think I could have done much else,
The Most Dog Friendly Community Online
Join Dog Forum to Discuss Breeds, Training, Food and More
Had to admit defeat and buy Halti collar
- Thread starter Peegee
- Start date
- Messages
- 1,791
- Reaction score
- 844
- Points
- 113
I do feel for ya, coping with chronic pulling or trying to re-train it once entrenched, is a bear. 
If she doesn't mind it, I say don't make trouble where there's none - just be sure to watch carefully for any irritation to her skin, such as a rub or hair-loss on her foreface.
Also, i don't know if U have children / a partner / a dog-walker, but be VERY sure that no one uses any forceful pulls or especially, any sudden yanks to "punish" or control her, as she could be hurt - either briefly, causing momentary pain, or actual injury, with soft-tissue damage that can take time to heal.
Headcollars are fine tools - just keep hands low, use minimal force - light gentle traction is all that's needed - & use a LIGHTWEIGHT leash & hardware. The standard 1.25-inch-wide 6-ft long nylon webbing leash with a hefty 3-inch long snap is overkill for a dog on a halter; a 3/4-inch or half-inch wide leash is plenty strong, for any dog under 90#, & no bull snaps or other heavy-duty hardware, please.
Ordinary spring-clips are perfectly adequate, & much-more comfy for the dog, as any weight that's clipped to the ring under the dog's chin is transferred directly to their foreface. // A hefty leash or oversized hardware causes the same sensation for the dog as wearing very-heavy spectacles of thick glass would cause us, an ever-present discomfort of pressure on our noses.
I'll be back later with some alternative options, for any other folks who struggle with dogs who think they're engines on a freight train.
Don't feel guilty - U made a fine choice, much better than wrestling with the dog daily or avoiding walks entirely!
walk on, trooper,
- terry
If she doesn't mind it, I say don't make trouble where there's none - just be sure to watch carefully for any irritation to her skin, such as a rub or hair-loss on her foreface.
Also, i don't know if U have children / a partner / a dog-walker, but be VERY sure that no one uses any forceful pulls or especially, any sudden yanks to "punish" or control her, as she could be hurt - either briefly, causing momentary pain, or actual injury, with soft-tissue damage that can take time to heal.
Headcollars are fine tools - just keep hands low, use minimal force - light gentle traction is all that's needed - & use a LIGHTWEIGHT leash & hardware. The standard 1.25-inch-wide 6-ft long nylon webbing leash with a hefty 3-inch long snap is overkill for a dog on a halter; a 3/4-inch or half-inch wide leash is plenty strong, for any dog under 90#, & no bull snaps or other heavy-duty hardware, please.
Ordinary spring-clips are perfectly adequate, & much-more comfy for the dog, as any weight that's clipped to the ring under the dog's chin is transferred directly to their foreface. // A hefty leash or oversized hardware causes the same sensation for the dog as wearing very-heavy spectacles of thick glass would cause us, an ever-present discomfort of pressure on our noses.
I'll be back later with some alternative options, for any other folks who struggle with dogs who think they're engines on a freight train.
Don't feel guilty - U made a fine choice, much better than wrestling with the dog daily or avoiding walks entirely!
walk on, trooper,
- terry
- Messages
- 1,791
- Reaction score
- 844
- Points
- 113
OK - i returned the new pants that didn't fit, did my grocery shopping & have enuf staples to last a month, LOL - got some terrific bargains on shelf-stable items, including a dry mix for grain-burgers in 2 flavors [black bean-6 veg, & Italian with black olives], some tasty bottled tomato sauces, wonderful pastas, specialty rices, etc.
I'm ready to talk dogs!
FIRST -
my personal favorite tool for dogs who pull habitually: a front-clipped Y-harness. [The "Y" is seen from the front, 2 straps come off the shoulders & meet at the strap coming up between the forelegs]. Be sure that no buckles or slides / other hardware go close to or into the delicate "armpit" area, which is actually at the dog's elbow - the skin there is thin, can wrinkle & be badly pinched or bruise, & is EASILY chafed into a weeping sore.
The harness should adjust in at least 3 places to fit properly, & 5 is even better - brand-name isn't critical, any sturdy harness with BOX stitching at the ends of straps & all cut ends sealed with heat, so they won't fray. // A well-made nylon webbing harness should last 15 to 20 years of frequent use, so long as U don't leave it where the dog can gnaw on it.
Fit the harness SNUGLY - this means on a double-coated dog, the hairs should bristle out from beneath the straps, & a pattern should be left by the harness on the haircoat when it's taken off - the squashed hair pops back into place as soon as the dog shakes [which BTW U can put on cue - "Shake" is handy, as it's self-calming.]
On a smooth-coated dog, the "tracks" of the harness will be barely-visible when it's removed, but there should be a slight but definite depression of the tissue [muscle, skin] lying directly beneath the straps, & a 'puffy' line where the skin runs beside the straps & parallels the area under pressure - the skin, fat, & muscle spring free, & make a tiny elevation.
Once properly adjusted, test to see if it's a good fit:
pull the harness sideways with both hands on the same side - one tugs the heart-girth, & the other tugs on the shoulder-strap; the harness should not move much - if it ROLLS significantly toward U, it doesn't fit well. Either re-adjust it, or try another model / another maker. // Harnesses that slither from side-to-side under tension can chafe the poor dog, & cause rubs, galls, or sores in sensitive places.
Now - U've got a sturdy harness, it's on the dog, seems to fit well - Look at the chest. Is there a RING, usually of metal, or a TriANGLE, often of plastic, joining the 3 straps? - a metal ring that is sand-cast in a single piece is preferred; a bent ring that has the open ends WELDED shut is next-best. If the bent ring still has a gap where the ends meet [rotate it to see the entire ring, so that U see all parts that were hidden by the straps], don't buy that harness - the ring can bend open, torque, or even break under sudden tension [b/c bending it weakens the metal].
If the connecter is a plastic triangle, make sure it flexes slightly - very rigid plastics are liable to break.
If the straps loop thru one another & there's no other connector, don't despair - if the harness is otherwise suitable, there's a simple work-around.
For harnesses without a sturdy connector on the forechest -
Go to any outdoors supply, camping or hiking gear; buy a LOCKING carabiner. They come in all sizes & colors - contrast, compliment, match the harness, or just get basic black in powdercoated steel. Unlock & open it, run it under both straps on the diagonal, & lock it. To remove the leash, unclip it - leave the carabiner in place & locked, as otherwise it is liable to be lost / mislaid, or put back on WITHOUT locking it - when the 1st tension can pull it off, & there goes the dog!...
The harness is properly adjusted, the carabiner [if one is needed] is in place & locked - clip the leash on, & go.
TIPS:
- keep both hands __low__
-- between waist & hips is good; down as close to hip-level as is comfortable, is best.
- keep wrists & arms relatively straight; move arms from the shoulder, & use Ur torso, turning at the waist to turn the dog.
-- most particularly, do not go chicken-winged & bend at both wrist & elbow! :wags finger warningly:
A front-clip harness does 2 things at once - it gives the handler better body-mechanics, by reducing the need for brute upper-body & upper-arm strength, & it reduces the dog's power by converting their forward momentum from a straight line, in line with their body, into an arc -- which will bend toward U. // With a chest-clipped harness, simply stop, PUT BOTH HANDS straight-armed across Ur torso to the outside seam on the leg opposite the dog, & take ONE STEP BACK with that foot - the dog will make a U-turn & end up facing U, wondering how that happened?... :huh:
try to imagine it - the dog is walking to Ur left, another dog emerges from between 2 parked cars, followed by their handler; Ur dog gets excited & lunges forward to get closer to the other dog, who reciprocates & also bounds forward. U stop, turn from the waist, put both arms across Ur body with yer hands at the RIGHT pants pocket, thumbs at the outside seam, take ONE STEP backward with the right foot... & here comes yer dog, puzzled but moving away from their intended target.
U & the other hander breathe a sigh of relief, & walk away with yer dogs - disaster averted. :cheers:
- terry
I'm ready to talk dogs!
FIRST -
my personal favorite tool for dogs who pull habitually: a front-clipped Y-harness. [The "Y" is seen from the front, 2 straps come off the shoulders & meet at the strap coming up between the forelegs]. Be sure that no buckles or slides / other hardware go close to or into the delicate "armpit" area, which is actually at the dog's elbow - the skin there is thin, can wrinkle & be badly pinched or bruise, & is EASILY chafed into a weeping sore.
The harness should adjust in at least 3 places to fit properly, & 5 is even better - brand-name isn't critical, any sturdy harness with BOX stitching at the ends of straps & all cut ends sealed with heat, so they won't fray. // A well-made nylon webbing harness should last 15 to 20 years of frequent use, so long as U don't leave it where the dog can gnaw on it.
Fit the harness SNUGLY - this means on a double-coated dog, the hairs should bristle out from beneath the straps, & a pattern should be left by the harness on the haircoat when it's taken off - the squashed hair pops back into place as soon as the dog shakes [which BTW U can put on cue - "Shake" is handy, as it's self-calming.]
On a smooth-coated dog, the "tracks" of the harness will be barely-visible when it's removed, but there should be a slight but definite depression of the tissue [muscle, skin] lying directly beneath the straps, & a 'puffy' line where the skin runs beside the straps & parallels the area under pressure - the skin, fat, & muscle spring free, & make a tiny elevation.
Once properly adjusted, test to see if it's a good fit:
pull the harness sideways with both hands on the same side - one tugs the heart-girth, & the other tugs on the shoulder-strap; the harness should not move much - if it ROLLS significantly toward U, it doesn't fit well. Either re-adjust it, or try another model / another maker. // Harnesses that slither from side-to-side under tension can chafe the poor dog, & cause rubs, galls, or sores in sensitive places.
Now - U've got a sturdy harness, it's on the dog, seems to fit well - Look at the chest. Is there a RING, usually of metal, or a TriANGLE, often of plastic, joining the 3 straps? - a metal ring that is sand-cast in a single piece is preferred; a bent ring that has the open ends WELDED shut is next-best. If the bent ring still has a gap where the ends meet [rotate it to see the entire ring, so that U see all parts that were hidden by the straps], don't buy that harness - the ring can bend open, torque, or even break under sudden tension [b/c bending it weakens the metal].
If the connecter is a plastic triangle, make sure it flexes slightly - very rigid plastics are liable to break.
If the straps loop thru one another & there's no other connector, don't despair - if the harness is otherwise suitable, there's a simple work-around.
For harnesses without a sturdy connector on the forechest -
Go to any outdoors supply, camping or hiking gear; buy a LOCKING carabiner. They come in all sizes & colors - contrast, compliment, match the harness, or just get basic black in powdercoated steel. Unlock & open it, run it under both straps on the diagonal, & lock it. To remove the leash, unclip it - leave the carabiner in place & locked, as otherwise it is liable to be lost / mislaid, or put back on WITHOUT locking it - when the 1st tension can pull it off, & there goes the dog!...
The harness is properly adjusted, the carabiner [if one is needed] is in place & locked - clip the leash on, & go.
TIPS:
- keep both hands __low__
-- between waist & hips is good; down as close to hip-level as is comfortable, is best.
- keep wrists & arms relatively straight; move arms from the shoulder, & use Ur torso, turning at the waist to turn the dog.
-- most particularly, do not go chicken-winged & bend at both wrist & elbow! :wags finger warningly:
A front-clip harness does 2 things at once - it gives the handler better body-mechanics, by reducing the need for brute upper-body & upper-arm strength, & it reduces the dog's power by converting their forward momentum from a straight line, in line with their body, into an arc -- which will bend toward U. // With a chest-clipped harness, simply stop, PUT BOTH HANDS straight-armed across Ur torso to the outside seam on the leg opposite the dog, & take ONE STEP BACK with that foot - the dog will make a U-turn & end up facing U, wondering how that happened?... :huh:
try to imagine it - the dog is walking to Ur left, another dog emerges from between 2 parked cars, followed by their handler; Ur dog gets excited & lunges forward to get closer to the other dog, who reciprocates & also bounds forward. U stop, turn from the waist, put both arms across Ur body with yer hands at the RIGHT pants pocket, thumbs at the outside seam, take ONE STEP backward with the right foot... & here comes yer dog, puzzled but moving away from their intended target.
U & the other hander breathe a sigh of relief, & walk away with yer dogs - disaster averted. :cheers:
- terry
Wow, that's a lot of information, thank you. Evie only wears a harness when travelling in the car which is attached to the safety belt anchor and not for walking. I have always used a light lead, she is a Cockapoo, so not big or particularly strong. She was more irritating on the lead rather than painful, but as I say the Halti collar is a dream.
- Messages
- 2,534
- Reaction score
- 2,071
- Points
- 113
Dear Peegee,
Please don't feel like a failure. The Halti is a marvellous item to use, it is not severe and I find that dogs are easier to control by just turning their heads, they learn to walk loosely with the halti on and are such a pleasure after all of the normal tugging. Halti's do not have to be tightly fitted.
My old chap wore the Halti whenever we went out for lead walks, he learnt to walk loosely very quickly and I could hold the lead between finger and thumb, as that is all that was needed !
However if I was to ever use the lead attached to his collar his head would go straight down to sniff as much as he could and tension would be felt through the lead. I like loose leads when they are attached not tight ones.
Enjoy your walks. :cheers:
Please don't feel like a failure. The Halti is a marvellous item to use, it is not severe and I find that dogs are easier to control by just turning their heads, they learn to walk loosely with the halti on and are such a pleasure after all of the normal tugging. Halti's do not have to be tightly fitted.
My old chap wore the Halti whenever we went out for lead walks, he learnt to walk loosely very quickly and I could hold the lead between finger and thumb, as that is all that was needed !
However if I was to ever use the lead attached to his collar his head would go straight down to sniff as much as he could and tension would be felt through the lead. I like loose leads when they are attached not tight ones.
Enjoy your walks. :cheers:
- Messages
- 1,224
- Reaction score
- 320
- Points
- 83
Haltis are great so if you are happy with the results I would just stick with it. I prefer a different brand, the Dogalter, but it is quite a heavy duty bit of kit. A light framed dog might find it uncomfortable. When I remember (!) the name of a lighter weight alternative I will post it on here.
Some dogs find wearing any kind of head gear calming. It comes from when they are tiny pups and their mother would lift them by cradling the head in her jaws. The pup's instinct is to relax. That instinct still kicks in when a headcollar is fitted to some dogs.
Some dogs find wearing any kind of head gear calming. It comes from when they are tiny pups and their mother would lift them by cradling the head in her jaws. The pup's instinct is to relax. That instinct still kicks in when a headcollar is fitted to some dogs.
- Messages
- 1,224
- Reaction score
- 320
- Points
- 83
Sorry, got them the wrong way round. The Dogalter is the lighter weight one, the Dogmatic is the heavy duty, padded, one. Very good quality and great for a big strong dog.
Thanks to you both. The Halti doesn't seem to be particularly heavy and I don't have to have it tight. Apart from the pulling on the lead she really is a very good dog and she doesn't seem to be bothered by the halti at all - i didn't even have to train her to let me put it on her the first time, she is very accepting. shes probably enjoying lead walks more herself, now that I'm not constantly 'nagging' her to walk and keep stopping and starting all the time.
Thanks to you both. The Halti doesn't seem to be particularly heavy and I don't have to have it tight. Apart from the pulling on the lead she really is a very good dog and she doesn't seem to be bothered by the halti at all - i didn't even have to train her to let me put it on her the first time, she is very accepting. shes probably enjoying lead walks more herself, now that I'm not constantly 'nagging' her to walk and keep stopping and starting all the time.
- Messages
- 1,791
- Reaction score
- 844
- Points
- 113
Peegee,
I posted the info about front-clip harnesses for anyone who has a dog that pulls, chases, or lunges. If U are happy with a headcollar, the dog's happy - wonderful!
Don't let anyone second-guess U, whatever suits U & Ur dog is good.
for the general reader:
A headcollar is a perfectly respectable choice for many reasons - a habitual puller is just one; predatory dogs who will rip the leash out of one's hands on that one occasion when some hapless critter starts up practically under our feet, aggressive dogs with a bite-history toward ppl or other nonhumans, or who have a fight history with other dogs - for all 3 of those broad types, a headcollar is insurance. It protects the dog as much as it protects the handler's legal liability.
There are other very good reasons, too - i've helped disabled persons train their own SDs, & someone with a very weak grip can't hold a leash attached to a collar on a dog's neck with a grip sufficient to restrain or direct the dog, unless the dog weighs under 5#. Toy-dogs are perfectly capable of some assistance jobs [Hearing Ear, for one, or diabetic alert /seizure alert, for 2 others], but they can't do the tasks a Labrador can do - & directing a Lab with a headcollar, even with a weak grip or poor upper-body strength, is much, much easier.
Children, elderly ppl, & anyone who is over-dogged - whose dog outweighs, overpowers, or simply ignores them - can all use a headcollar profitably; it compensates for their relative weakness, plus it reduces the dog's power.
Basically, a headcollar is a management tool; it's not designed for training, & won't teach a dog to walk politely on a loose leash unless U specifically decide to spend time training for a LLW, & switch from a headcollar to a different collar now & then, to see if U've made any progress - Does the dog pull less intensely, less often, or at the very least, not as constantly?
If so, congratulations! - 'better' is good, any improvement is worth celebrating. :thumbsup:
U can also use a headcollar every day for a dog's lifespan - that's a perfectly valid choice. // Just ONE safety precaution: U should never combine a headcollar with an EXTENDABLE leash of any sort, & if U want to use a long-line to give a dog running room, i'd use a front-clip harness, not the headcollar. If a dog hits the end of a long-line abruptly while wearing a headcollar, the sharp jerk might cause neck or spine injuries.
No one has yet claimed the cash compensation offered by the vet who designed the Gentle Leader, another headcollar brand, for any vet-corroborated neck injury incurred while using a GL on an ordinary leash. I think it's been on the market for... 30-years? --- IIRC. Personally, i'm very confident of headcollars' safety in general - i've used Haltis & GLs, plus i designed & made a headcollar of my own for my trash-eating dog, many years ago. It worked beautifully. :cheers:
For teaching a dog LLW, personally, i'd use a front-clip Y-harness; it's a great management tool, the dog can't tow U around, but it allows the dog more freedom of choice than a headcollar. Loose-leash walking is a co-operative behavior; it's not imposed on the dog by the handler - dogs must be taught how to do it, rewarded for LLW, & then do it willingly when asked, or simply LLW anytime the context arises.
But everybody gets to choose their own tools - so long as they aren't designed to deliver pain or to cause discomfort, nor to startle or frighten a dog, I think whatever an owner or trainer chooses is fine. Every tool has advantages & flaws, & which dog we use what tool with is part of the puzzle, too.
Shock collars, choke-chain / infinite-slip & prong collars, water-balloons, throw-chains, rattle cans, air horns, ________ -- those are simply not on the menu for me, & i can't agree with their use when we have so many other options that don't cause pain, & aren't meant to startle or threaten a dog. Choose a tool that meets LIMA guidelines for this individual dog: Least Invasive, Minimally Aversive, & that will serve Ur goal. Then get training! :cheers: Or be happy that U are successfully & safely managing a problem behavior - that's an accomplishment in itself.
- terry
I posted the info about front-clip harnesses for anyone who has a dog that pulls, chases, or lunges. If U are happy with a headcollar, the dog's happy - wonderful!
Don't let anyone second-guess U, whatever suits U & Ur dog is good.
for the general reader:
A headcollar is a perfectly respectable choice for many reasons - a habitual puller is just one; predatory dogs who will rip the leash out of one's hands on that one occasion when some hapless critter starts up practically under our feet, aggressive dogs with a bite-history toward ppl or other nonhumans, or who have a fight history with other dogs - for all 3 of those broad types, a headcollar is insurance. It protects the dog as much as it protects the handler's legal liability.
There are other very good reasons, too - i've helped disabled persons train their own SDs, & someone with a very weak grip can't hold a leash attached to a collar on a dog's neck with a grip sufficient to restrain or direct the dog, unless the dog weighs under 5#. Toy-dogs are perfectly capable of some assistance jobs [Hearing Ear, for one, or diabetic alert /seizure alert, for 2 others], but they can't do the tasks a Labrador can do - & directing a Lab with a headcollar, even with a weak grip or poor upper-body strength, is much, much easier.
Children, elderly ppl, & anyone who is over-dogged - whose dog outweighs, overpowers, or simply ignores them - can all use a headcollar profitably; it compensates for their relative weakness, plus it reduces the dog's power.
Basically, a headcollar is a management tool; it's not designed for training, & won't teach a dog to walk politely on a loose leash unless U specifically decide to spend time training for a LLW, & switch from a headcollar to a different collar now & then, to see if U've made any progress - Does the dog pull less intensely, less often, or at the very least, not as constantly?
If so, congratulations! - 'better' is good, any improvement is worth celebrating. :thumbsup:
U can also use a headcollar every day for a dog's lifespan - that's a perfectly valid choice. // Just ONE safety precaution: U should never combine a headcollar with an EXTENDABLE leash of any sort, & if U want to use a long-line to give a dog running room, i'd use a front-clip harness, not the headcollar. If a dog hits the end of a long-line abruptly while wearing a headcollar, the sharp jerk might cause neck or spine injuries.
No one has yet claimed the cash compensation offered by the vet who designed the Gentle Leader, another headcollar brand, for any vet-corroborated neck injury incurred while using a GL on an ordinary leash. I think it's been on the market for... 30-years? --- IIRC. Personally, i'm very confident of headcollars' safety in general - i've used Haltis & GLs, plus i designed & made a headcollar of my own for my trash-eating dog, many years ago. It worked beautifully. :cheers:
For teaching a dog LLW, personally, i'd use a front-clip Y-harness; it's a great management tool, the dog can't tow U around, but it allows the dog more freedom of choice than a headcollar. Loose-leash walking is a co-operative behavior; it's not imposed on the dog by the handler - dogs must be taught how to do it, rewarded for LLW, & then do it willingly when asked, or simply LLW anytime the context arises.
But everybody gets to choose their own tools - so long as they aren't designed to deliver pain or to cause discomfort, nor to startle or frighten a dog, I think whatever an owner or trainer chooses is fine. Every tool has advantages & flaws, & which dog we use what tool with is part of the puzzle, too.
Shock collars, choke-chain / infinite-slip & prong collars, water-balloons, throw-chains, rattle cans, air horns, ________ -- those are simply not on the menu for me, & i can't agree with their use when we have so many other options that don't cause pain, & aren't meant to startle or threaten a dog. Choose a tool that meets LIMA guidelines for this individual dog: Least Invasive, Minimally Aversive, & that will serve Ur goal. Then get training! :cheers: Or be happy that U are successfully & safely managing a problem behavior - that's an accomplishment in itself.
- terry
- Messages
- 1,791
- Reaction score
- 844
- Points
- 113
U are not a failure, @PeeGee - never think that.
U've found a tool that helps U with a chronic issue that made walking the dog something to dread, rather than enjoy. Walks should be fun for both ends of the leash. :thumbsup: Be happy, & use that headcollar proudly - U are a success!
waving across the Pond,
- t
U've found a tool that helps U with a chronic issue that made walking the dog something to dread, rather than enjoy. Walks should be fun for both ends of the leash. :thumbsup: Be happy, & use that headcollar proudly - U are a success!
waving across the Pond,
- t
- Messages
- 1,791
- Reaction score
- 844
- Points
- 113
lovely today! - Warm rather than hot, Monday was stinkin', 90 & sticky.
Today is 80 with a nice breeze, lower humidity - gawjuss. Off to the farmers' market...
Today is 80 with a nice breeze, lower humidity - gawjuss.
Off to the farmers' market...
- Messages
- 2,544
- Reaction score
- 2,298
- Points
- 113
Peegee - can you post a link to what you're using please? We use something similar to a Halti recommended by a trainer that he had custom made. It does the job, but I'm concerned it could irritate when worn. I've looked at Haltis in the past, but got confused by their many offerings! Thanks P.S. I really have to try hard not to type Hilti!!!
P.S. I really have to try hard not to type Hilti!!!
- Messages
- 1,791
- Reaction score
- 844
- Points
- 113
@arealhuman -
could U please post a photo of the headcollar that U use? --
Also, what specific trait of its design has U worried that it will cause irritation, & what kind? A friction-rub, pressure sore, bruising, _____ ?
The outdoor-supply store where i bought the climbing-rope that i used to make my own custom-designed headcollar had no flat cording, only round; my dog only weighed 35# as an adult, & even less when i made his headcollar, of round cord, not flat straps. // I wouldn't suggest a headcollar made of round cord for any larger dog, FLAT straps safely distribute pressure over a larger area, but at the same time, it never caused any irritation to Beau.
details for those interested
Beau [Beauregard] was a Dachs x Bassett, & resembled his smooth-faced mum not his super-droopy sire in all respects other than gender. His thin-skinned bony foreface would have been very vulnerable to rubs or bruising -- but there was never any puffiness, nor any hair-loss, let alone actual 'rubs' with sore skin caused by friction & pressure. He wore my homemade headcollar multiple times a day for months & months, until i could trust him to LEAVE IT [when told, very firmly] as we passed by garbage / bones / food wrappers, etc.
He was probly 15 to 18-MO before i could verbally TELL him 'leave it' when i saw something alluring to his nose or palate, & expect him to comply 80% of the time
He was a completely-indiscriminate scavenger as a young pup, i adopted him at 9-WO, & he was so short-legged & long-nosed that STOPPING him from vacuuming up some gross tidbit was virtually impossible; by the time i realized it was there, he'd already inhaled it.
He made himself very ill on one occasion, gulping down a spoiled end of a hamburger & bun as we passed a Dumpster before i could stop him; 3 days of nonstop foul-smelling fluid diarrhea & some vomiting, gut pain, etc, followed. He was still just 12-WO, & i thot he'd kill himself before he reached puberty if i didn't get control of his incessant search for "anything that might be or once was food, or once contained food".
Later, at just 7 or 8-MO, he escaped the 'pet room' in my basement apartment, dug open a closed closet door, tore a sealed bag, & gorged on dry food - when i got home from work, he looked as if he'd swallowed a volleyball, he could neither sit nor lie down comfortably; he was lucky to survive, the vet told me to limit his water intake, feed him NOTHING, & monitor him carefully until ALL the food passed out his anus; it took over 4-days to void it all, & in that time, he got small amounts of water only & went to work with me every day, so that i could hear him & check on him frequently.
From then on, he went to work with me 5 days a week, & when solo at home [which was rare], he was LOCKED in the pet-room, with a concrete floor, no closets, no trashcan - & only safe toys / chewies. The cat's food was 5-ft above the floor, on a wall-mounted shelf - where the cat could easily leap, & he could not. // Then of course, he took to eating the parrots' dropped rations - *sigh*. He was a trial, but also adorable, affectionate, & funny.
Dogs with no satiety switch are a danger to themselves, & trash-eaters can get into all sorts of trouble. Beau was a terrific therapy-pet, but he was a lifelong garbage-hound who had to be carefully managed, with no access to trashcans, food cupboards, etc, when home alone, & U had to watch him like a hawk when on leash - & ESPECIALLY when off-leash. I usually only let him off-leash in areas that i'd already policed for anything he might think ingestible.
I loved him dearly, but he was incorrigibly greedy & indiscriminate. :b
- terry
could U please post a photo of the headcollar that U use? --
Also, what specific trait of its design has U worried that it will cause irritation, & what kind? A friction-rub, pressure sore, bruising, _____ ?
The outdoor-supply store where i bought the climbing-rope that i used to make my own custom-designed headcollar had no flat cording, only round; my dog only weighed 35# as an adult, & even less when i made his headcollar, of round cord, not flat straps. // I wouldn't suggest a headcollar made of round cord for any larger dog, FLAT straps safely distribute pressure over a larger area, but at the same time, it never caused any irritation to Beau.
details for those interested
Beau [Beauregard] was a Dachs x Bassett, & resembled his smooth-faced mum not his super-droopy sire in all respects other than gender. His thin-skinned bony foreface would have been very vulnerable to rubs or bruising -- but there was never any puffiness, nor any hair-loss, let alone actual 'rubs' with sore skin caused by friction & pressure. He wore my homemade headcollar multiple times a day for months & months, until i could trust him to LEAVE IT [when told, very firmly] as we passed by garbage / bones / food wrappers, etc.
He was probly 15 to 18-MO before i could verbally TELL him 'leave it' when i saw something alluring to his nose or palate, & expect him to comply 80% of the time
He was a completely-indiscriminate scavenger as a young pup, i adopted him at 9-WO, & he was so short-legged & long-nosed that STOPPING him from vacuuming up some gross tidbit was virtually impossible; by the time i realized it was there, he'd already inhaled it.
He made himself very ill on one occasion, gulping down a spoiled end of a hamburger & bun as we passed a Dumpster before i could stop him; 3 days of nonstop foul-smelling fluid diarrhea & some vomiting, gut pain, etc, followed. He was still just 12-WO, & i thot he'd kill himself before he reached puberty if i didn't get control of his incessant search for "anything that might be or once was food, or once contained food".
Later, at just 7 or 8-MO, he escaped the 'pet room' in my basement apartment, dug open a closed closet door, tore a sealed bag, & gorged on dry food - when i got home from work, he looked as if he'd swallowed a volleyball, he could neither sit nor lie down comfortably; he was lucky to survive, the vet told me to limit his water intake, feed him NOTHING, & monitor him carefully until ALL the food passed out his anus; it took over 4-days to void it all, & in that time, he got small amounts of water only & went to work with me every day, so that i could hear him & check on him frequently.
From then on, he went to work with me 5 days a week, & when solo at home [which was rare], he was LOCKED in the pet-room, with a concrete floor, no closets, no trashcan - & only safe toys / chewies. The cat's food was 5-ft above the floor, on a wall-mounted shelf - where the cat could easily leap, & he could not. // Then of course, he took to eating the parrots' dropped rations - *sigh*. He was a trial, but also adorable, affectionate, & funny.
Dogs with no satiety switch are a danger to themselves, & trash-eaters can get into all sorts of trouble.
Beau was a terrific therapy-pet, but he was a lifelong garbage-hound who had to be carefully managed, with no access to trashcans, food cupboards, etc, when home alone, & U had to watch him like a hawk when on leash - & ESPECIALLY when off-leash. I usually only let him off-leash in areas that i'd already policed for anything he might think ingestible.I loved him dearly, but he was incorrigibly greedy & indiscriminate. :b
- terry
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi, not sure how to import a web link but can give you details:. Www.petsathome.com sell the head collar that we are using. It's called a 'Halti Optifit Dog Head Collar' and the product code is: P4566, they charge £18 I think. I have taken a couple of photos of Evie wearing hers and in profile you can see the ring where I clip the lead. She is a medium sized Cockapoo and I bought the medium. It is very lightweight and works really well for us, but I will say she isn't particularly strong and a stronger one might work better for a larger strong dog,. Gypsysmum has put details of ones she has used in this thread I believe. Good luck, as I say worked wonders for us straight from the start.Peegee - can you post a link to what you're using please? We use something similar to a Halti recommended by a trainer that he had custom made. It does the job, but I'm concerned it could irritate when worn. I've looked at Haltis in the past, but got confused by their many offerings! Thanks
- Messages
- 1,791
- Reaction score
- 844
- Points
- 113
Thank U kindly for the pic, @Peegee -
Evie looks totally unbothered by her headcollar, which is just as it should be. She's obviously comfy wearing it, which is great!
Evie looks totally unbothered by her headcollar, which is just as it should be.
She's obviously comfy wearing it, which is great!
- Messages
- 724
- Reaction score
- 164
- Points
- 43
Awwww, Evie looks a sweet girl
Molly has (or should I say 'had'- we haven't needed to use it in years) first a Dogmatics head collar, which worked but which she hated with a passion and spent all of walks trying to find a way to get it off, and then a k9bridle, which worked and which she didn't mind that much. Once she'd realised that we were going to put that on her if she was going to try running at other dogs if we were within 100 yards of them to tell them off for coming so close to her, we stopped needing to put it on her at all. All we needed to do was to carry it in my bag or pocket and show it to her occasionally, and she would rather keep herself under control than have it put on. Did I mention that Molly is a worryingly clever dog?
The other thing that I think really helps with lead training is for the humans to learn about how much easier it is to move their dog away from where they're trying to go by going to the side, not pulling backwards. Even with a head collar, a strong and excited dog can pull forwards against someone trying to pull them back much easier than they can against a destabilising force turning left or right. Much less strength is needed from the human and you can use it as a 'This way!' opportunity to get your dog's focus onto something else at the same time. Much like with child care, it's easier to distract with another thing than to just say 'no'.
And BTW, you're not a failure by using a head collar. You would be a failure if you allowed your dog to be dangerously out of control and either get hurt or hurt people or other dogs as a result. You would be a failure (IMO) if you resorted to a prong collar or other aversive method with a friendly and happy dog that doesn't need to learn by a fear or pain inducing method.
Molly has (or should I say 'had'- we haven't needed to use it in years) first a Dogmatics head collar, which worked but which she hated with a passion and spent all of walks trying to find a way to get it off, and then a k9bridle, which worked and which she didn't mind that much. Once she'd realised that we were going to put that on her if she was going to try running at other dogs if we were within 100 yards of them to tell them off for coming so close to her, we stopped needing to put it on her at all. All we needed to do was to carry it in my bag or pocket and show it to her occasionally, and she would rather keep herself under control than have it put on. Did I mention that Molly is a worryingly clever dog?
The other thing that I think really helps with lead training is for the humans to learn about how much easier it is to move their dog away from where they're trying to go by going to the side, not pulling backwards. Even with a head collar, a strong and excited dog can pull forwards against someone trying to pull them back much easier than they can against a destabilising force turning left or right. Much less strength is needed from the human and you can use it as a 'This way!' opportunity to get your dog's focus onto something else at the same time. Much like with child care, it's easier to distract with another thing than to just say 'no'.
And BTW, you're not a failure by using a head collar. You would be a failure if you allowed your dog to be dangerously out of control and either get hurt or hurt people or other dogs as a result. You would be a failure (IMO) if you resorted to a prong collar or other aversive method with a friendly and happy dog that doesn't need to learn by a fear or pain inducing method.
Thanks Eingana. That's interesting about moving sideways and not pulling back, that makes perfect sense. Fortunately she is not a strong dog and my problem wasn't that she would lung at other dogs or drag me around just that she was constantly walking faster than me and always at the end of her lead, which not only hurt my shoulder and was very irritating but also madeher choke and splutter all the time, which can't have been good for her. I was really hoping to resolve this with training but despite my best efforts she just couldn't contain herself, so the halti it is, and I must say any time on the lead is so much more pleasant now, for both of us!
Welcome to Dog Forum!
Join our vibrant online community dedicated to all things canine. Whether you're a seasoned owner or new to the world of dogs, our forum is your go-to hub for sharing stories, seeking advice, and connecting with fellow dog lovers. From training tips to health concerns, we cover it all. Register now and unleash the full potential of your dog-loving experience!
Login or Register