JRT neutering & companion

[Steve E]

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Hello there! I have a 10-month-old Jack Russell Terrier (JRT), and he's my only pet, living exclusively with me. He's well-adjusted with no signs of anxiety or aggression. He's generally well-trained, except for the occasional challenge with squirrels. Fortunately, he doesn't chew or mark inside the house, enjoys running alongside my bicycle for miles, and behaves well in the car. Neutering is known to reduce certain undesirable traits by lowering testosterone levels, but in his case, he doesn't exhibit any problematic behaviors related to intact male status. I do acknowledge the potential long-term health complications associated with keeping him unneutered. Currently, the primary benefit of neutering would be preventing accidental procreation. I had a previous pet, a Yorkshire Terrier, neutered years ago due to aggressive tendencies, but it didn't alter his behavior.

I would appreciate any advice on whether or not to proceed with neutering.

Additionally, I'm considering introducing another puppy into the household. I'd love to hear your thoughts on whether this is a good idea or a potentially challenging one. Many thanks!

 

[JoanneF]

There are pros and cons to neutering, but I'd say at ten months old, he has probably not reached full maturity yet so at the very least, if he was mine I'd hold off making a decision for another few months.

Another factor would be whether your new puppy will be male or female. Personally I'd also hold off on adding another until your boy is adult.

But if you get a female, when she goes into heat, it can be terribly frustrating for intact males.

 

[Hemlock]

I agree - and as you sound such a thoughtful owner, no doubt you will take note of how your dog is developing mentally as he matures. Many adolescent dogs (either sex) go through a "humpy" stage but it's just a teenage thing and they grow out of it. Just redirect him on to a cushion or similar, and don't tolerate any approach from him to hump humans or other dogs. If you don't make a big deal of it, it won't become one.

There is no reason not to leave a male dog intact all his life. It's in the design spec. after all. I kept a stud dog and he was a complete gentleman. It's proper training and guidance that creates the final dog. It isn't a given that physical issues will develop in later life, but if they do it is the time to deal with them then. Male humans are every bit as prone to prostate problems as dogs but we don't routinely castrate those.

It's my experience that terriers prefer to be "only" dogs, but if you are really wanting to get another, I'd say hold off until he is at least two years old, and whatever you get as another dog, choose one that isn't a terrier.

 

[Steve E]

There are pros and cons to neutering, but I'd say at ten months old, he has probably not reached full maturity yet so at the very least, if he was mine I'd hold off making a decision for another few months.

Another factor would be whether your new puppy will be male or female. Personally I'd also hold off on adding another until your boy is adult.

But if you get a female, when she goes into heat, it can be terribly frustrating for intact males.

Thank you. I wasn't planning on the op yet. The additional pup would be for him, not me, for his quality of life. So I'm not in any rush.

 

[JoanneF]

Can I throw in a word of caution about getting another dog ”for your dog". By all means get one for you, but don't assume they will become best friends. If they tolerate each other, that's usually considered a good result.

Of course some do become close but that brings its own problems, for example if they ever have to be separated at any time.

 

[Hemlock]

Your decision of course, but this is what I often say regarding this:

Your Significant Other comes home with a new person and says they are going to live with you both. You will be friends! You can go to the pub together, go to concerts, share the shopping, borrow each other's clothes, everything you enjoy you can now do with this new person.

Imagine how this makes you feel.

That's how your dog feels too.

And I speak as one who has lived with up to six dogs - it CAN work but boy! Is it ever a lot of extra effort.

 

[Tinytom]

We have 2 deerhound boys half brothers only 4months apart Sykes is 2 and Teddy is 2 in may neither are neutered as they are too young and we dont intend to ...all my previous dogs were neutered as they were rescues ...most had quirks and i wonder if neutering them especially under 2 was the problem...my boys are well rounded ...welcome other dogs into our home big or small ....

 

[colettedb]

I can relate to your dilemma here - I have been worrying to spay or not to spay august? My German shepherd was never spayed And only needed to go vet in her last 3 months when she was 13 years old.

August‘s vet already spoke about spaying at her annual check advising best do it after next season which will be before 2 years old so I am not keen. Issue with august was what we think was menstrual cramps last season so daughter thinks will be kinder to spay whereas I am more of the opinion to get canine painkillers if it happens again.

So my advice is do what you feel is best for your guy I definitely will be doing what I feel is best for august while listening to advice but not necessarily following it.

 

[Steve E]

Thank you all for the guidance. The decision, for now, is that LB stays just as he is. My approach to his training remains firm, fair, and consistent. LB continues to be a happy chap—funny, with boundless energy, loving, and occasionally deadly (especially when it comes to shoe innersoles). Together, we keep learning new things all the time.

For instance, when it comes to Bonfire Night fireworks, I took a proactive approach about three weeks before the 5th of November. I asked Alexa to play fireworks sounds, starting at a low volume and putting it on loop for about 20 minutes. I made no extra effort towards LB, just carried on with our normal routine. Gradually, I increased the volume, still without paying much attention. Eventually, it reached a volume of screaming and banging fireworks that I thought might disturb the neighbours (only at that high volume for very short periods). Come the night of the fireworks, LB was calmly sitting on the window ledge, seemingly unfazed by the noise, just watching the pretty lights.

As for our 'wolf pack,' it looks like it will remain just the two of us. It seems LB doesn't need a buddy; I'm his main companion.

One of my concerns has been LB's nosy and friendly nature, especially when off the lead. While his recall needs some work, I've reconsidered the option of keeping him perpetually on a lead. Instead, I've opted for a GPS tracker. This way, I can give him the freedom to explore while still ensuring his safety.

There's always a solution, and my priority is to provide the best possible environment for LB. If anyone has more advice or insights, feel free to share. LB and I appreciate the support.

 

[JudyN]

One of my concerns has been LB's nosy and friendly nature, especially when off the lead. While his recall needs some work, I've reconsidered the option of keeping him perpetually on a lead. Instead, I've opted for a GPS tracker. This way, I can give him the freedom to explore while still ensuring his safety.

Bear in mind that though this will make him safer, it won't stop him running up to people and/or dogs who really don't want him running up to them. So do please keep working on recall. I'm sure he'll get there - he sounds like a great little chap!

 

[Steve E]

One of the major challenges I face is dealing with other people when training my dog. It's not about placing blame; rather, finding a solution. I've identified a quiet, open space off the beaten path in a nearby park. LB can see other dogs at a distance, providing an opportunity for recall training. However, the real complication arises because people come over.

While some individuals are understanding and LB makes new friends, others present challenges. As LB excitedly jumps up, despite my efforts to correct him, some dismiss the behavior, stating, "Oh, he's okay," or expressing admiration for his cuteness. I've tried to provide direct instructions to visitors at home, emphasizing the importance of ignoring the dog upon arrival and using the command "OFF" if he jumps up. Unfortunately, the initial charm of LB's cuteness often wears thin when he continues jumping, even after 15 minutes of interaction, unless I then have to be strict.

Consistency is crucial in training, and even when I return home, LB is expected to remain calm. He has been trained to wait patiently as I settle in, anticipating our interactive "Beatings" sessions. While he possesses a lightning-fast bite reflex, it has been successfully trained out of him since the early stages of our interaction. Though the reflex remains, he exhibits remarkable self-control, never actually biting; "Oh, your hand accidentally fell into my mouth". Additionally, most of his commands are also communicated through hand signals - so he gets the idea to keep looking at me, even off the lead. We'll get there.

 

[JudyN]

While some individuals are understanding and LB makes new friends, others present challenges. As LB excitedly jumps up, despite my efforts to correct him, some dismiss the behavior, stating, "Oh, he's okay," or expressing admiration for his cuteness.

I hear you. I always turn away and ignore a dog that jumps up even if I really want to pet it, but many people seem determined to effectively train your dog to do what you don't want him to.

 

[JoanneF]

Does he have a really solid 'sit'?

If he is sitting, he can't be jumping at the same time. Some dogs find that easier than another cue, like off. The trick though, is that sitting needs to be a far more rewarding choice for him than jumping - I know we often say ignore the behaviours we don't want, and that works for some things; but if jumping is self-rewarding (ie he gets a kick out of doing it) just ignoring won't cut it.

 

[Steve E]

Hi there - his sit (1 finger pointing up) is pretty good. As is his wait (flat palm facing him) and his down (horizontal flat palm moving downwards). He does the sit/wait (for me to go first) going through the front door/rear door/car door or going up and down stairs (where he follows with the command 'slow'). All the way up to a stranger patting the front of their thighs and saying, "he only wants a fuss". So, you're right, all this = "ALL HUMANS WILL WANT ME TO DO THIS & I GET A FUSS!". When I had a GS, no one leant over and encouraged him to jump up!

 

[JoanneF]

That's great but it's not so much about how good his sit is, it's about how motivated he is to choose that as a behaviour when you ask, rather than jumping.

/wait (for me to go first) going through the front door/

Can I ask, why is that something that is important to you?

 

[Steve E]

That's great but it's not so much about how good his sit is, it's about how motivated he is to choose that as a behaviour when you ask, rather than jumping.


Can I ask, why is that something that is important to you?

Sure, because I don't know what's going on the other side of the door. Or the gate, that leads onto a lane where there is sometimes traffic or dogs that are off lead.

 

[Hemlock]

Be aware that JRTs are a a working breed, and one of the things they instinctively want to do is go down holes in the ground. This is dangerous and must not happen. Not only is it illegal except under very specific circumstances, it is risky, because any hole a dog can fit down is NOT a rabbit hole (despite what so many people who apparently have never seen a rabbit will tell you). So your idea of letting him go out of sight safely because he has a tracking collar could end up with a bad experience (for you - he'll love it!). It's a candle best not lit, because once they find out what going to ground is all about, it becomes addictive to them. I've spent much of my life with working terriers, and I know how driven they are.

You are already very perceptive with preventing unwanted behaviours - this is just another, but I don't know if you were aware of the possibilities.

 

[Tinytom]

We found this with one of ours he was a rescue at 1 yr old he was an offlead dog for 3 years ..after a few altercations with a badger and a fox he had to stay on lead whereas our other Jack who came from working stock wouldn't have hurt a fly ...I wouldn't have 2 jack Russell's again but do miss having a jack ...
I always had a pigeon pair (a jack russell and a lurcher) ...

 

[Steve E]

Be aware that JRTs are a a working breed, and one of the things they instinctively want to do is go down holes in the ground. This is dangerous and must not happen. Not only is it illegal except under very specific circumstances, it is risky, because any hole a dog can fit down is NOT a rabbit hole (despite what so many people who apparently have never seen a rabbit will tell you). So your idea of letting him go out of sight safely because he has a tracking collar could end up with a bad experience (for you - he'll love it!). It's a candle best not lit, because once they find out what going to ground is all about, it becomes addictive to them. I've spent much of my life with working terriers, and I know how driven they are.

You are already very perceptive with preventing unwanted behaviours - this is just another, but I don't know if you were aware of the possibilities.

All noted. The addition of LB wasn't impulsive; I was well aware of the risk and reward associated with a spirited canine. He's with me almost 24/7; every interaction with him comes with the same expectation, every time. Eg food time. I ask "Is it time?", he goes to the fridge. I go to the fridge and he backs away and lays down. I sort his food out, put the bowl down, walk away (with him still laid down) and say "Yes", he savours every morsel (it's all gone in 20 seconds or less). Any interruption on his part, I just stop until the routine is restored. He then savages a toy for 10 mins, wants to play fight for another 10 mins with me and has a quick sleep. I do my part (mostly to be on time with the food as the dog has an inbuilt atomic clock), he does his - we're both happy. Repeat at 6am and 6pm.

I admit to choosing the wrong term when discussing his safety. Instead of "ensure," I should have said "minimize the risk of him coming to harm." Off-leash training begins after we've covered approximately 10km on the bike. While it doesn't entirely wear him out, it exposes him to numerous stimuli that we consciously 'overlook'.
For off-leash training, I use a corkscrew lead attachment in the ground and about 20 feet of para cord. I position myself at the circle's edge, allowing him a maximum distance of 40 feet on an all-grass area. We initiate reward-based training, even in the rain (less people wandering over), to work on him being responsive to me when distractions arise. As for going to ground, even the King's JRT defied the monarch!

 

[Hemlock]

Sounds like you two are really getting on well. It's great to hear.