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I'm posting this as part of a set of helpful 'easy reference' articles for common questions and problems. Feel free to add additional information on loose lead walking in this thread, but please start a new thread for specific questions relating to your dog.
Lead manners
We've probably all seen (or perhaps experienced) a big strong dog dragging its poor owner. Apart from making walking unpleasant, over time it can lead to injury or even be dangerous if the dog pulls its walker somewhere unsafe, such as into traffic. So, training your dog to walk nicely on lead is an important skill and makes walking far more enjoyable for everyone.
How to Start
There are several methods of training this. One of the most widely used ones is to start walking, and if your dog pulls or puts any pressure on the lead, you simply stop. The second the dog releases the pressure on the lead, begin walking but if he pulls, stop again. The idea is that he learns that pulling to get ahead has the opposite effect, and it is only by walking at your side that he will get to where you are going.
This means your walk is a series of stops and starts, but it helps to think of this as training rather than taking a walk, so you have no expectation of actually getting to somewhere (and no disappointment and frustration when you don't). If your dog needs a good walk, perhaps use a different type of collar or harness (more on these below) so you don't undo the good work you have done so far.
Another method is to teach your dog without using a lead. If he isn't on a lead, he can't pull. Obviously this must be done in a safe, enclosed space.
The first step is to train your dog to walk nicely by your side, with his head by your leg or very slightly ahead. Start by luring him into position with a treat. When he is in position, mark using a sound marker such as ”yes” or with a clicker (see Training with a clicker for more detail on how to do this) and reward. At this point, don't try to walk. You are only teaching him a walking position.
When he is reliably coming and staying by your leg, put a name to it, for example 'close'.
Now, take one step forward, using your 'close' word. If he also takes one step and remains in position, mark and reward. Take another step, and rinse and repeat.
When he is staying in place for individual steps, progress to taking two steps at a time, then three.
Now, when you put a lead on, he should know the walking position (and the 'close' cue) so should be able to maintain that with the lead on.
Whichever method you use, always give yourself and your dog the best chance of succeeding by starting in a place with few distractions. If there are lots of exciting smells or other dogs, it would be like asking a five-year-old child to learn arithmetic in Santa's Grotto - not going to happen.
What About Equipment?
It's training, not tools, that creates good lead manners. However, I do want to list some pieces of kit that are sometimes suggested as aids while you work on training.
Harnesses
Using a harness won't make a dog more inclined to pull - and if you have a dog that does pull, he will do less damage to the delicate areas of his neck if you use a well fitted harness. Y shaped harnesses (for example, Perfect Fit) that come over the shoulders and have one strap between the forelegs are better than H shaped harnesses (for example, Julius K9) that have a horizontal strap across the chest. This is because the H shaped harnesses restrict shoulder movement and can cause orthopaedic problems.
Slip Leads
Slip leads tighten round a dog's throat if they pull. This is aversive, as it causes pain or discomfort, and can do damage if the dog pulls persistently or even suddenly. These leads are helpful to transfer a dog who is a flight risk from one place to another but they were never intended as a lead to use for walking.
Prong Collars
As a non-aversive forum we would absolutely deter anyone from using a prong collar. It may stop a dog from pulling, but through pain or fear of pain. Your dog will not be relaxed while walking by your side. In this video, two collies were trained loose lead walking, one with reward based methods and the other using aversive tools. It isn't hard to guess which is which.
Head Collars
Head collars can be aversive - many dogs dislike them because they can be uncomfortable. However, if it is a question of control, to keep you safe while you work on training, your safety may have to be prioritised. Definitely avoid using anything that rides up your dog's face though; not all head collars are created equal. The Gentle Leader seems to be a better fit than some, but of course it depends on the dog's head shape. Please don't use a head collar on a flat-faced dog as his breathing could be compromised.
Extendable or Flexi Leads
I would never use an extendable lead for training loose lead walking (although of course they have their place in other contexts). That's simply because of the way they are designed to work. The dog gets more lead by pulling against the mechanism. That's exactly what you are trying to train him not to do!
In Conclusion
Loose lead walking does take a bit of effort to train but as well as being safer, your walks will also be more comfortable and enjoyable so it's well worth taking the time to do it. And you get bragging rights when you see someone else being dragged along like a water skier behind their dog.
Further Reading/Viewing
Walkies Wear
Lead manners
We've probably all seen (or perhaps experienced) a big strong dog dragging its poor owner. Apart from making walking unpleasant, over time it can lead to injury or even be dangerous if the dog pulls its walker somewhere unsafe, such as into traffic. So, training your dog to walk nicely on lead is an important skill and makes walking far more enjoyable for everyone.
How to Start
There are several methods of training this. One of the most widely used ones is to start walking, and if your dog pulls or puts any pressure on the lead, you simply stop. The second the dog releases the pressure on the lead, begin walking but if he pulls, stop again. The idea is that he learns that pulling to get ahead has the opposite effect, and it is only by walking at your side that he will get to where you are going.
This means your walk is a series of stops and starts, but it helps to think of this as training rather than taking a walk, so you have no expectation of actually getting to somewhere (and no disappointment and frustration when you don't). If your dog needs a good walk, perhaps use a different type of collar or harness (more on these below) so you don't undo the good work you have done so far.
Another method is to teach your dog without using a lead. If he isn't on a lead, he can't pull. Obviously this must be done in a safe, enclosed space.
The first step is to train your dog to walk nicely by your side, with his head by your leg or very slightly ahead. Start by luring him into position with a treat. When he is in position, mark using a sound marker such as ”yes” or with a clicker (see Training with a clicker for more detail on how to do this) and reward. At this point, don't try to walk. You are only teaching him a walking position.
When he is reliably coming and staying by your leg, put a name to it, for example 'close'.
Now, take one step forward, using your 'close' word. If he also takes one step and remains in position, mark and reward. Take another step, and rinse and repeat.
When he is staying in place for individual steps, progress to taking two steps at a time, then three.
Now, when you put a lead on, he should know the walking position (and the 'close' cue) so should be able to maintain that with the lead on.
Whichever method you use, always give yourself and your dog the best chance of succeeding by starting in a place with few distractions. If there are lots of exciting smells or other dogs, it would be like asking a five-year-old child to learn arithmetic in Santa's Grotto - not going to happen.
What About Equipment?
It's training, not tools, that creates good lead manners. However, I do want to list some pieces of kit that are sometimes suggested as aids while you work on training.
Harnesses
Using a harness won't make a dog more inclined to pull - and if you have a dog that does pull, he will do less damage to the delicate areas of his neck if you use a well fitted harness. Y shaped harnesses (for example, Perfect Fit) that come over the shoulders and have one strap between the forelegs are better than H shaped harnesses (for example, Julius K9) that have a horizontal strap across the chest. This is because the H shaped harnesses restrict shoulder movement and can cause orthopaedic problems.
Slip Leads
Slip leads tighten round a dog's throat if they pull. This is aversive, as it causes pain or discomfort, and can do damage if the dog pulls persistently or even suddenly. These leads are helpful to transfer a dog who is a flight risk from one place to another but they were never intended as a lead to use for walking.
Prong Collars
As a non-aversive forum we would absolutely deter anyone from using a prong collar. It may stop a dog from pulling, but through pain or fear of pain. Your dog will not be relaxed while walking by your side. In this video, two collies were trained loose lead walking, one with reward based methods and the other using aversive tools. It isn't hard to guess which is which.
Head Collars
Head collars can be aversive - many dogs dislike them because they can be uncomfortable. However, if it is a question of control, to keep you safe while you work on training, your safety may have to be prioritised. Definitely avoid using anything that rides up your dog's face though; not all head collars are created equal. The Gentle Leader seems to be a better fit than some, but of course it depends on the dog's head shape. Please don't use a head collar on a flat-faced dog as his breathing could be compromised.
Extendable or Flexi Leads
I would never use an extendable lead for training loose lead walking (although of course they have their place in other contexts). That's simply because of the way they are designed to work. The dog gets more lead by pulling against the mechanism. That's exactly what you are trying to train him not to do!
In Conclusion
Loose lead walking does take a bit of effort to train but as well as being safer, your walks will also be more comfortable and enjoyable so it's well worth taking the time to do it. And you get bragging rights when you see someone else being dragged along like a water skier behind their dog.
Further Reading/Viewing
Walkies Wear
