Puppy home alone?

[Molly's Mum]

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Hi

Been reading some topics here, and learnt lots already thank you. So thought I'd say hi.

In 4 weeks time our lovely little puppy Molly will be coming home with us. She's a tri coloured cavapoo and me and my family are really excited. Especially my two children age 5 and 3.

I'm looking into puppy proofing, insurance and puppy classes. Trying to learn as much as I can before she comes home.

However I do work and 2 days per week the pup will be home alone for around 8 hours. But I am going to make provisions for puppy visits twice a day, and then I'll walk her before and after work once she's old enough. My dad also wants to do puppy day care, so there's that option if the puppy is upset being alone, but he's quite old and not sure if he'll cope with a puppy. I could arrange for proper doggy day care but that could upset my dad who really wants to help (he can't take her for walks though)

I'm wondering whether to book time off work to help her settle, or just get her used to it straight away. She'll have 5 days with me first to get used to me and the home, but wondering whether to book another week off.

I actually feel very guilty about these 2 days. I thought of waiting to get a puppy until I have more time, but I only work part time anyway, and realistically I will always need to work. That wont change, and I wouldn't get one if i worked full time.

I am wondering if training will be delayed because it won't have consistency 2 days a week?

Can anyone tell me any success stories of dogs being alone sometimes?

(Pleare don't shoot me for getting a puppy when I work too, I have thought a lot about this)

 

[gypsysmum2]

Though not ideal, I am sure you will manage your puppy around your work.

I would try your dad first as a puppy carer. Young pups sleep a lot and just need supervision and watching for house training. As long as he is able to get up fairly quickly and take Molly to the garden then I am sure all will be well.

If your dad cannot manage then you will need doggy daycare I think. Eight hours is too long for most dogs let alone a small puppy.

You might like to crate train Molly so that your dad can use a crate for times when he might want a nap or to make a meal or take a phone call etc.

One of the best things you can do is enrol in Puppy Socialisation Classes under an APDT registered trainer. If you took your dad along too then he would train Molly using the same methods as you.

I have needed to work most of my life and have always managed to fit my pets in around it. Coming home lunchtimes, sometimes, taking them to work with me sometimes. We find a way when we need to

 

[Molly's Mum]

Thank you so much for your understanding response.

I've had a bit of heat from my in-laws saying I'm selfish for getting a dog because I work. And I do agree with that statement if I worked full time, but lots of dog owners work. I have thought about this for years. I've had some great recommendations for local pet businesses who do dog walking/puppy visits/doggy day care. So if things don't work out with my dad, then at least there are options. I'd never leave her alone for too long. Just a shame it's not with me, but never mind.

I love your suggestion of taking my dad along to puppy classes! That's another worry of mine, he's a very strict man and I know we'll have different views on training the puppy and she's going to need consistency.

I've been unsure about crate training, but it does seem like a good option the more I think about it.

Thanks again.

 

[JoanneF]

You might find the following helpful for crate training - I wrote it for someone with a male puppy so please excuse the references to he.

First, the crate needs to be the best place ever for a dog to be. So great treats, toys, happy voices and heaps of encouragement in the crate. Let him go in for super tasty things (chicken?) but don't shut the door. His bed should be in there too. Some pups like soft toys, and a tee shirt you have worn so with your smell might help too. Only when he realises the crate is a great place should you close the door or the pen. You should start to get him used to being alone though, so once he is going into his crate happily, leave the room for a few minutes (2, 5, 10) and build up slowly.<br>

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At night, its a good idea to have his crate in your room to start with so he knows you are close by. You can put a hand down to stroke and comfort him if he gets distressed. Please dont ignore him, you wouldnt ignore a crying child and leave him in an empty room. Comforting him when he is distressed is fine and will strengthen your bond. Unfortunately many people make the mistake of allowing a puppy to cry in the hope that they grow out of it, when actually all they have done is cement in the puppies mind that being left in the crate (or alone, or whatever is causing the crying) is indeed a terrible thing, and for many dogs this fear becomes a learned habit. <br>

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Gradually you can start moving the crate away to outside the bedroom door, near the room you want him to sleep in, and eventually into that room. With puppies learning, everything is done in little steps, and if anything starts to fail, you go back a step and stay there longer.<br>

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Also in your room you are more likely to hear him if he moves and needs out to toilet. With young puppies its too long to expect them to hold on all night (their little bladder and bowels arent big enough or strong enough) so set your alarm for a couple of times in the night.

 

[Molly's Mum]

Thank you Joanne, that's really useful to read.

 

[gypsysmum2]

You might like to get Gwen Baileys book "The Perfect Puppy" and share it with your dad.

If your dad is very strict then try to find some common ground so that the puppy does not have too much in the way of different handling to cope with. If your dad, for instance will not allow dogs on furniture then it may be best to reinforce that at home to start with. If you want to teach Molly, later, to jump on the furniture you can put it on command only for when she is at home.

I think they play biting will be your biggest problem as elderly people have very thin skin. It might be best to get started early on the "ouch" technique which teaches puppies to inhibit their bite. It is called "ouch" to differentiate it from the "no" command that puppies hear so often that it becomes wallpaper noise to them. If you think your dad will just blurt out "no" all the time then you may have to use the "no" instead of "ouch" so that the puppy is not getting mixed messages from you both.

As soon as teeth touch skin or clothing say "ouch/no" and immediately withdraw attention. Wait about ten seconds or so and then resume handling/playing but be prepared to repeat, repeat, repeat. It comes from Mother and Littermates who will not interact with a puppy that bites too hard.

Teeth on toys gets the puppy attention but as soon as the teeth touch skin or clothing all attention must stop with the signal "ouch/no" telling the puppy why she is being ostracised.

Stage two begins a week or so after this training has been practised religiously. There Is never and excuse for biting it is just not allowed. Stage two involves isolating the puppy after the "ouch/no" signal by standing up and leaving the room or quickly popping the puppy the other side of a stair gate. (Never use the puppy crate for punishment - it must always have pleasant associations). You could invest in a play pen for your dad's house and she could be popped in their to be ignored for a short while.

APDT Puppy Classes will teach all of the above and your dad may listen more to the trainer than you

 

[Molly's Mum]

Thank you again, I am going to buy that book and speak with my dad about consistency and both of us agreeing how to train Molly. He does love dogs so much, and my mum won't let him have one so I hope this will bring us closer together as well and something for both of us to do together.

That's really useful to read about biting, having young children this is a worry for me. My children are very excited but are quite nervous around big dogs and jumpy little dogs. I'm sure they will be fine once they get used to Molly, but I don't want her nipping to make them afraid of her.

I'll certainly take your advice, thank you.

 

[gypsysmum2]

It is best to dress the children in stout clothing when around the puppy to protect their skin from needle sharp teeth. Practice playing "statues" so that, when Molly comes home, they can join in with the "ouch" technique and teach Molly to inhibit her bite. Every time her teeth touch them they say "ouch" and turn, immediately into a statue. They can then count to ten and resume playing but be ready to repeat lots of times.

You might like to discuss with them about Molly stealing their toys. The best way to deal with stealing is to totally ignore a dog that does it. Stealing is much less fun if no one takes any notice of you! Molly will, however, want to chew things she finds lying around! Always pay attention to her when she is chewing and playing with her own toys and she should, mostly, choose them over human ones.

 

[Molly's Mum]

That's a fantastic idea, thank you. I'll certainly tell the children to turn into statues when she nips. I really hope the nipping stage doesn't last long, but from what I've read..its a slow process! I want to involve the children in her training so this is a great suggestion thank you.

The children have a play room and I also dry our clothes in there, so I'm going to make that room and the children's bedrooms off limits to Molly. At least whilst she's a puppy, as there are so many hazards in those rooms and lots of things she'll want to chew! I'm sure she'll sneak in sometimes, but that'll teach the children to keep the doors closed!

 

[Peegee]

Hi, I did find with our puppy that saying 'ouch' or 'yipe' in a high pitch often made her more excited so I tried leaving the room and shutting the door behind me. This seemed to work much better, she would just sit and look bemused at the door. I returned after 10-15 seconds and asked to come and sit before we resumed play. This stage didn't really last that long. She is now 4 months and never hurts us wth her teeth although occasionally might touch our skin when playing and I do try to remember to 'ouch/yipe' and stop playing for a minute or two every time.

 

[gypsysmum2]

Leaving the room is Stage 2 of the "ouch" technique. First we try stopping the game. If, after lots of practice and with everyone on board, the puppy is persisting with biting then Stage 2 is implemented. It is a bit drastic to abandon the puppy at an early stage.

Yes, it is best not to yelp in an excited voice Just a normal voice is fine. It is just a signal to let the puppy know "why" it is being ignored.

 

[Peegee]

Ah, I hadn't realised this was stage 2. Mind you I probably didn't implement this until after 2 or 3 weeks anyway when I realised that just saying 'yipe' wasn't working. So perhaps this was stage 2 anyway.