What to do?

[Lawranced]

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I understand that getting a puppy, especially a fox red lab, can be a big responsibility. However, after 6 months of having our 10-week-old fox red lab, we're finding it challenging. We've experienced typical puppy behavior such as chewing, biting, and teething. Taking him for walks has also been stressful as he pulls on the lead, eats everything, and jumps on other walkers. The garden looks like a minefield from all the digging, and he actively looks for things to do to get attention. He has many toys, but he will stop playing a game of tug to go and randomly start chewing the sofa or digging another hole in the garden. We walk him twice a day for about 45 minutes each time. We're unsure whether to invest in more training or find him a new home. Some people say that it gets better as they grow older, while others believe that this behavior will continue. We have 2 children aged 10 and 7 and they are not able to play with him as he's too big and nippy (sometimes it's an accident sometimes I'm not so sure)

We're torn about what to do next. perhaps we're just not 'dog' people.

 

[JudyN]

Given his age, I would say that with committed training, it will definitely get easier. You say that he actively looks for things to do to get some attention - the answer here is to ensure that he gets attention when he is doing what you want, and life gets boring if he does what you don't want - e.g. by giving him a timeout in a room or playpen where he can't destroy anything of value.

You need to prevent him jumping on other walkers, either by keeping him on a lead or walking him in places he won't meet anyone, and then work on training polite greetings.

You might find some useful info for various situations in our Useful Links sections: Useful Links & Recommended Reading & Useful Links & Recommended Reading If you can find a good training class locally, that could really help too. Alternatively, a behaviourist who can observe what's going on and suggest tailored solutions could be invaluable - bear in mind that this is an unregulated industry and there are some really bad behaviourists out there. Avoid anyone who says you need to be more 'alpha' or leader of the pack, or who uses adersives such as pet correction sprays or rattle cans, or even just verbal reprimands.

Check out Kikopup's videos on YouTube too - they can be really helpful.

 

[Tinytom]

Sounds like a typical labrador to me and it has nothing to do with him being a Fox Red colour ...
Do you know if he came from working stock ...it makes such a difference with temperament...

 

[Lawranced]

Yes, we were told his dad was a Gun dog, both parents were on a farm.

 

[Tinytom]

Ah that makes sense ..dogs from working stock can be very different to dogs that have been bred from pet dogs ...can I ask what you feed him

 

[Lawranced]

He was on the AVA puppy sensitive or whatever its called, but we found that upset his stomach, seems anything that had a beak is bad news for him. he's now on Wainwright Lamb and rice with vegetables.

 

[JoanneF]

The food probably isn't contributing to his behaviour (some are like rocket fuel).

Did you find anything helpful in the reading lists? I also second the suggestion of a good class - if you have a Dogs Trust near you, they get a good reputation. But, not all classes are good, if you find one and you'd like us to look at their online credentials please do ask.

 

[Lawranced]

We have a good trainer just down the road however we struggle to continue what is taught during the training one we get home (part of the 'its not his fault')

 

[Tinytom]

I disagree about food it makes a
Lot of difference with behaviour especially in young working strain dog ..

 

[JudyN]

We have a good trainer just down the road however we struggle to continue what is taught during the training one we get home (part of the 'its not his fault')

I'm not sure what you mean by 'it's not his fault'. Could you describe what you've been told to do for a particular issue and why this isn't working at home?

 

[JoanneF]

I disagree about food it makes a
Lot of difference with behaviour especially in young working strain dog ..

Oh, absolutely, you are right. Sorry, I put that badly; I just meant Wainwright's isn't usually one of the problem foods.

 

[Tinytom]

I think you have to change your mind sight that any pup has the capacity to annoy you on purpose by actively looking for something to chew to get your Attention...dogs do not think like this ..he is just a baby ...pups are really hard work especially labs and one that is from working strain ...the breeders I know would Never sell a working strain pup to a pet home it's not fair on you or your dog ...
You can get through this but it will take alot of training You not just your pup and if you are prepared for that the end result will be worth it But it's a huge commitment...have you thought of contacting a gun dog trainer...even if you dont want to work him they maybe the best result to give you advice on training methods ...
My neighbour has a Springer spaniel who is hard work at 6 months she has started him gun dog training even though he wont be used as a gun dog and she says it's the best trainer she has had ....
If you really think you cant cope with him then there is no shame in finding him a good home ....
Let us know how you get on

 

[Cath S]

Hi. I am certainly no expert and know nothing about the working v pet dog scenario but….sounds similar to Freddie around the same age. I found things so easy right at the start as I was expecting it to be hard so was prepared. What I wasn’t prepared for was for it to be hard 5-6 months down the line. He was challenging and got the nickname ‘devil dog’ . He is 3.5 years old now and has had his full share of issues (mainly medical). I live in a flat and remember sitting in the communal steps after a challenging night balling my eyes out wondering if I was a dog person and googling how to rehome him. Well I didn’t re home him and love him to bits and he certainly got better with age - maybe adolescence has kicked in. Just wanted to say it can get better. Hope this helps.

 

[Lawranced]

So here we are, three months after the original post. We still have him, and things have improved. The only issue we're really facing now is during walks. When he sees another dog, he takes off—I'm talking about half a mile away, and he won't stop until he reaches the other dog. He's not aggressive; he just wants to play. However, this behavior is clearly not safe for anyone and could be dangerous. We have a whistle and his recall is good as long as there are no other dogs. Any suggestions?

 

[Hemlock]

Constant vigilance. We humans are taller and can see further. Do not let yourself be distracted by phone or conversation. Always keep a 360 degree check of at least 100 yards ahead/behind/to the side. As soon as you spot other dogs, horses, vulnerable people, get your dog back on a short lead, maybe have a little game of tug or some tiny food reward so it is a positive experience, get him (VERY IMPORTANT) on the side of you furthest away from the other dog and commit to keeping him away from it. Walk past quickly. If necessary get off the path, turn back, step to the side. Once the other dog is well clear, he can go offlead again. There are no circumstances where it is good to allow a dog to run up to other dogs without the specific permission of the handler, so good for you for wanting to avoid trouble here. I wish others were as thoughtful.

 

[Lawranced]

9/10 times I've already seen the other dog before he has. I call him back he looks around before coming to me and he's off. we keep it light and friendly while trying to hide the panic....

 

[JoanneF]

When he sees another dog, he takes off—I'm talking about half a mile away, and he won't stop until he reaches the other dog.

He is at that really awkward age, if my arithmetic is right, somewhere between nine months and a year? He’s starting to develop independence, like a teenager who thinks they already know everything but have little concept of the consequences of what they do. It’s not uncommon, and if you stop allowing it he will likely grow out of it, but you really must stop him from doing it. One day he will run up to the wrong dog, one that’s bad tempered, elderly, unwell or recovering from injury, or one with an owner like me. That could end badly (sorry, but as the owner of an older dog that has had to recover from injury and is more fragile and less nimble than he was when he was younger, I’d get really upset if my dog was the one he’d be running off to greet).

First, keep him on a long line so he can’t practise this behaviour. The more he practises, the better he will get at it. A long line should only ever be attached to a harness, never a collar, because if he picks up speed and reaches the end, the jerk could cause him injury.

Second, you need to make you far, far more interesting and fun than other dogs. You want you to be the source of all fun and good things, you to be the centre of his universe. So reward all engagement with you. If he looks at you, mark with a sound marker and reward (see Training with a clicker for more information on sound markers). When you are walking him, don’t just walk - throw in some play or fun training games too.

Ideally, you want a dog that is dog neutral. Neither afraid of, or magnetised to other dogs.

 

[JudyN]

Do you think he's realised that if you call him back, it's likely to mean that there's another dog in the area? If so, you need to ensure you often call him back when you don't need to, and make it really worth his while, so it becomes amost a reflex.

Have a read of our article on recall: Recall

And don't despair - he really is at that difficult age!

 

[Mad Murphy]

I have two dogs who are on lead 99% of the time. They are both hunting breeds Beagle and Stabijhoun so prey drive is through the roof. Theres no shame in having your dog on lead. With varied walks and long lines there is lots of scope for safe exploring. I bet mine do more exciting walks than most dogs.

But if you want to train recall then its a case of practise until you are blue in the face, we had a rescue that had to learn a new name too so I took him to an enclosed space and used a long line a first calling his new name and giving just a slight tug n the line while holding a bit of hot dog... Once he realised that every time I said Remy I actually meant hot dog he came back so we progressed to letting him off lead but still in the enclosed area and more hot dogs.. Evenutally he had good recall but he was never bomb proof and I did once loose him for about 30 minutes .Luckily it was on an island where he had only one route on or off so I stood at the exit and waited. Some dogs will never be trustworthy this might be something you have to think about too but dont give up yet. Some just take longer to get the message than others.

 

[Flobo]

Can only agree with all of the above.
Training, whether it's recall, watching you or changing direction is so important to do just randomly and often, (consistency, repetition and patience are key), so it does become a reflex as Judy said, and not a desperate need in that moment. Most dogs really do love to learn, with a positive incentive of course!