Whippet puppy arriving in 3 weeks: top tips?

[NatashaF]

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Hi all, we have a Whippet puppy joining our family in 3 weeks. What would be your top tips for things to buy in advance and for those tricky first few weeks? Thanks!

 

[JoanneF]

To buy - the book Easy Peasy Puppy Squeezy gets great reviews.

Other top tip - get ahead of everything now. For example buy and wrap Christmas gifts and write your cards, if you celebrate it. And anything else you can prep in advance.

Free up space on your phone for the gazillion photos you will take.

Bookmark this page to show off your new arrival and ask any questions you have.

 

[JudyN]

What would be your top tips for things to buy in advance

Gin and chocolate

Storage boxes where you can dump shoes, pens, phones, anything else pup might chew - this makes life a whole lot easier. And learn to keep kitchen worktops clear of food at all times.

Consider only wearing old clothes in the early days - the sort you don't mind at all if they get damaged.

Expect no more of your pup in the early weeks/months than you would a baby or toddler - they have to learn so much, and don't come automatically programmed to know that they should do what you ask even when they understand it.

There's some links to useful articles/threads here: Useful Links & Recommended Reading

 

[NatashaF]

To buy - the book Easy Peasy Puppy Squeezy gets great reviews.

Other top tip - get ahead of everything now. For example buy and wrap Christmas gifts and write your cards, if you celebrate it. And anything else you can prep in advance.

Free up space on your phone for the gazillion photos you will take.

Bookmark this page to show off your new arrival and ask any questions you have.

Thank you what a lovely response

 

[Rinkydinkydo]

Be ready...they use their teeth for everything....its perfectly normal.

 

[Hemlock]

Whippets can jump surprisingly high and many of them dig as well. So check your fence every day.

They are also lovely, and you'll have such fun together.

 

[JacksDad]

I do not know your prior puppy raising experience, so I am just going to list points/things to thinking about. happy to expand on any or all as you need or want.

house training, where to eliminate. realize proactive taking out is THE path forward. do this often. play, eating, waking up are all events that often trigger a need to eliminate. do NOT wait for puppy to ask to go out. accidents happen, the puppy is simply not yet developed enough to "hold it" long or you waited too long to take out.

don't chew on this, rather chew on this dog toy/chew item. Teaching what is legal to chew is critical.

become comfortable being handled. puppies are often very compliant with whatever. but as they age, develop, their preferences come out. training to be handled is important.

getting out into the world in small puppy windows of exposure. this is socialization. which simply is exposure to what is normal in the world/life of the puppy. people walking by, car driving by, other dogs barking, kids playing, basically all of life. exposure is most critical, interaction does not need to happen if interaction puts puppies safety at risk, or you have covid concerns. But any age appropriate interactions that can be accomplished safely should be. but at the least exposure is very critical.

Seeing mild startle response to novelty is normal, proactively pair what caused the startle with yummy puppy safe treats. stack the deck in you favor, reduce the chance of puppy deciding what started should be feared. I recently did this with a 13 week puppy and cars. didn't just startle, first experience the puppy bolted in fear. instantly started with that first car forward...car/truck etc means chicken. With in 48 hours cars, buses, dump trucks etc. all meant look at me, get bit of chicken. no more overt signs of fear.

do not worry about leash walking, sit, down etc initially. however that doesn't mean you can't train there is plenty to train. example that puppy I mention above learned that sit is how to get out the crate or xpen vs jumping and pawing at the gate in one day. But if you asked this puppy to sit, wouldn't have a clue what you were asking. hadn't been trained that yet. puppy also was learning to just walk next to me a few steps at a time as a game, not a goal of a "big" walk.

Lots of sniff time. dogs explore the world via their sense of smell much like we do visually. Smell is so important to dogs a fairly recent study produced some initial data that suggest dogs are self aware...through sense of smell. not visual with a mirror. needs to be replicated, but that is how important their sniffing is. it is part of socialization, exploring and learning. indulge generously in the early days/weeks of your puppies life.

have a confined safe space to "park" puppy when you can't watch like a hawk. one that is ok for a elimination incident to happen

make sure anything you don't want going into puppies mouth is picked up, secured etc. See Judy's suggestion above.

It is ok for puppy to sleep near you at night. Puppies are not used to sleeping alone and going cold turkey from puppy pile with siblings to all alone isn't necessary or advisable.

a 8 to 14 week puppy are not big walkers. do not mistake not walking more than a few steps at a time as a problem. puppy will become very mobile soon enough.

Things change daily weekly with a puppy. The puppy that "toddled" just a few steps at 12 weeks, might become much more mobile towards the end 13 weeks. puppy that peed every 5 minutes at 9 weeks, suddenly is holding it longer at the end of 10 weeks and builds from there. chewing on everything including you reaching a peak during 13 weeks of age....suddenly eases up. these are examples/concepts, not hard and fast literal rules.

keep training and expectations age appropriate. do not expect what a 1 year old can do out of a puppy who's age is still measured in weeks. you will repeat lessons a lot. but it will get better and start sticking as they age.

puppies try the patience of a saint...but this too will pass.

 

[NatashaF]

Whippets can jump surprisingly high and many of them dig as well. So check your fence every day.

They are also lovely, and you'll have such fun together.

Could a whippet puppy climb an old apple tree with lots of large lower branches do you think? Wondering if we should get it removed as it’s right by a fence...

 

[NatashaF]

Gin and chocolate

Storage boxes where you can dump shoes, pens, phones, anything else pup might chew - this makes life a whole lot easier. And learn to keep kitchen worktops clear of food at all times.

Consider only wearing old clothes in the early days - the sort you don't mind at all if they get damaged.

Expect no more of your pup in the early weeks/months than you would a baby or toddler - they have to learn so much, and don't come automatically programmed to know that they should do what you ask even when they understand it.

There's some links to useful articles/threads here: Useful Links & Recommended Reading

Top tips indeed, thanks!

 

[NatashaF]

I do not know your prior puppy raising experience, so I am just going to list points/things to thinking about. happy to expand on any or all as you need or want.

house training, where to eliminate. realize proactive taking out is THE path forward. do this often. play, eating, waking up are all events that often trigger a need to eliminate. do NOT wait for puppy to ask to go out. accidents happen, the puppy is simply not yet developed enough to "hold it" long or you waited too long to take out.

don't chew on this, rather chew on this dog toy/chew item. Teaching what is legal to chew is critical.

become comfortable being handled. puppies are often very compliant with whatever. but as they age, develop, their preferences come out. training to be handled is important.

getting out into the world in small puppy windows of exposure. this is socialization. which simply is exposure to what is normal in the world/life of the puppy. people walking by, car driving by, other dogs barking, kids playing, basically all of life. exposure is most critical, interaction does not need to happen if interaction puts puppies safety at risk, or you have covid concerns. But any age appropriate interactions that can be accomplished safely should be. but at the least exposure is very critical.

Seeing mild startle response to novelty is normal, proactively pair what caused the startle with yummy puppy safe treats. stack the deck in you favor, reduce the chance of puppy deciding what started should be feared. I recently did this with a 13 week puppy and cars. didn't just startle, first experience the puppy bolted in fear. instantly started with that first car forward...car/truck etc means chicken. With in 48 hours cars, buses, dump trucks etc. all meant look at me, get bit of chicken. no more overt signs of fear.

do not worry about leash walking, sit, down etc initially. however that doesn't mean you can't train there is plenty to train. example that puppy I mention above learned that sit is how to get out the crate or xpen vs jumping and pawing at the gate in one day. But if you asked this puppy to sit, wouldn't have a clue what you were asking. hadn't been trained that yet. puppy also was learning to just walk next to me a few steps at a time as a game, not a goal of a "big" walk.

Lots of sniff time. dogs explore the world via their sense of smell much like we do visually. Smell is so important to dogs a fairly recent study produced some initial data that suggest dogs are self aware...through sense of smell. not visual with a mirror. needs to be replicated, but that is how important their sniffing is. it is part of socialization, exploring and learning. indulge generously in the early days/weeks of your puppies life.

have a confined safe space to "park" puppy when you can't watch like a hawk. one that is ok for a elimination incident to happen

make sure anything you don't want going into puppies mouth is picked up, secured etc. See Judy's suggestion above.

It is ok for puppy to sleep near you at night. Puppies are not used to sleeping alone and going cold turkey from puppy pile with siblings to all alone isn't necessary or advisable.

a 8 to 14 week puppy are not big walkers. do not mistake not walking more than a few steps at a time as a problem. puppy will become very mobile soon enough.

Things change daily weekly with a puppy. The puppy that "toddled" just a few steps at 12 weeks, might become much more mobile towards the end 13 weeks. puppy that peed every 5 minutes at 9 weeks, suddenly is holding it longer at the end of 10 weeks and builds from there. chewing on everything including you reaching a peak during 13 weeks of age....suddenly eases up. these are examples/concepts, not hard and fast literal rules.

keep training and expectations age appropriate. do not expect what a 1 year old can do out of a puppy who's age is still measured in weeks. you will repeat lessons a lot. but it will get better and start sticking as they age.

puppies try the patience of a saint...but this too will pass.

Thanks so much for all this excellent advice!

 

[JudyN]

Jacksdad's post reminded me of something I wish I'd done... As well as getting your dog used to being examined, do some 'dressing up' - if a dog injures itself, it can be helpful for the dog to wear a t shirt or boxers (suitably adapted). Bootees can be useful for paw injuries. And play at putting on bandages/Vetwrap and removing it. My dog thinks having a strip of Vetwrap laid across his leg is scary, and as for wearing socks....

 

[Hemlock]

How about fencing the tree off? Seems a shame to cut down a tree just in case - but puppy's safety has to come first.

 

[melb100]

Long post, apologies in advance! Most useful things for us as first time puppy guardians (beddy whippet/ saluki cross, now four months):

We carried her round a LOT of places with us before she'd had all her jags - woods, noisy roads, cycle paths, supermarket carpark etc. At different times of day and different weathers. So she was already used to all those environments before walking in them.

We also had a couple of friendly neighbour dogs who came round and played in the garden with her two-three times a week so she was getting some dog input. Only with trusted dogs (and owners) though.

If your dog likes their kibble and they have solid poos, dont change it unless you have a reallllly good reason, and then change it very slowly!!!!!!! *flashback to hosing liquid shit off the lawn for days on end*

Licky matt is one of our best ever purchases, it makes feeding more interesting and last longer but can also used to distract dog when having a bath, pulling out 10 million seed heads from the neighbour's garden all tangled in her fur , etc.

Toys are good but cardboard loo roll middles and egg boxes are better so dont go too mad at pets at home - or if you do buy lots, only "release" them one at a time so there is often something new to play with.

Toilet training - you'll care a lot less about wee on your floor than you ever imagined you would ;-) Just make sure your prized rugs are out of the way, and stock up on non-bleach cleaner.

Everything gets SO MUCH easier once they can go out on your walks, so book into the vets for jags ASAP.

Possibly more contentious but we started "training" the day after she arrived (lots of games using hand cues, words and lots of treats). We focused on a few different things but having her be able to do a good sit (or at least stand still, if sit isn't comfy, but sit works better for Aggie) has been super useful as she can now sit and wait on her "place" by the door when we come in from muddy walks, that gives us chance to towel her down rather that running around drying herself over the house. We also started on "recall" games, rewarding her with hugs and treats whenever she came to us, from before she was allowed out on walks. "Wait" is also a really good one and can be the basis for lots of fun games.

We also practiced wearing a lead (and putting it on and off) before she was out and about. Also practiced nail clipping, tooth cleaning, wearing a muzzle (large empty yoghurt pot with treats in the bottom works for us).

We did a fair bit of soul searching about when to let her off the lead but in the end we decided better to go early while she was still a bit unsure and would be more likely to check in with us - in a safe space of course. Very glad we did that as we have since met a 5 month and a 6 moths old who've never been off lead and their owners now too scared to do it.

As people say its easy to forget dogs dont come knowing what they should do and why. We put in a LOT of input early on -as long as its fun for the dog so start with really easy things they can succeed at and enjoy getting the reward. But also important to remember as someone on here said, they're not doing it to annoy you! When I'm cross, I find it helps to call her names and talk about how I'm going to turn her into dog biscuits - all in a sing song voice with a big happy smile. We do have an emergency "No!" but as many people have said on here, much better to reward the right behaviour instead.

Good luck!!

 

[NatashaF]

Long post, apologies in advance! Most useful things for us as first time puppy guardians (beddy whippet/ saluki cross, now four months):

We carried her round a LOT of places with us before she'd had all her jags - woods, noisy roads, cycle paths, supermarket carpark etc. At different times of day and different weathers. So she was already used to all those environments before walking in them.

We also had a couple of friendly neighbour dogs who came round and played in the garden with her two-three times a week so she was getting some dog input. Only with trusted dogs (and owners) though.

If your dog likes their kibble and they have solid poos, dont change it unless you have a reallllly good reason, and then change it very slowly!!!!!!! *flashback to hosing liquid shit off the lawn for days on end*

Licky matt is one of our best ever purchases, it makes feeding more interesting and last longer but can also used to distract dog when having a bath, pulling out 10 million seed heads from the neighbour's garden all tangled in her fur , etc.

Toys are good but cardboard loo roll middles and egg boxes are better so dont go too mad at pets at home - or if you do buy lots, only "release" them one at a time so there is often something new to play with.

Toilet training - you'll care a lot less about wee on your floor than you ever imagined you would ;-) Just make sure your prized rugs are out of the way, and stock up on non-bleach cleaner.

Everything gets SO MUCH easier once they can go out on your walks, so book into the vets for jags ASAP.

Possibly more contentious but we started "training" the day after she arrived (lots of games using hand cues, words and lots of treats). We focused on a few different things but having her be able to do a good sit (or at least stand still, if sit isn't comfy, but sit works better for Aggie) has been super useful as she can now sit and wait on her "place" by the door when we come in from muddy walks, that gives us chance to towel her down rather that running around drying herself over the house. We also started on "recall" games, rewarding her with hugs and treats whenever she came to us, from before she was allowed out on walks. "Wait" is also a really good one and can be the basis for lots of fun games.

We also practiced wearing a lead (and putting it on and off) before she was out and about. Also practiced nail clipping, tooth cleaning, wearing a muzzle (large empty yoghurt pot with treats in the bottom works for us).

We did a fair bit of soul searching about when to let her off the lead but in the end we decided better to go early while she was still a bit unsure and would be more likely to check in with us - in a safe space of course. Very glad we did that as we have since met a 5 month and a 6 moths old who've never been off lead and their owners now too scared to do it.

As people say its easy to forget dogs dont come knowing what they should do and why. We put in a LOT of input early on -as long as its fun for the dog so start with really easy things they can succeed at and enjoy getting the reward. But also important to remember as someone on here said, they're not doing it to annoy you! When I'm cross, I find it helps to call her names and talk about how I'm going to turn her into dog biscuits - all in a sing song voice with a big happy smile. We do have an emergency "No!" but as many people have said on here, much better to reward the right behaviour instead.

Good luck!!

Wow thanks so much for all these tips! How did you carry your puppy around before you started with walks? I was thinking about a baby carrier, or is that a bit eccentric?!

 

[melb100]

Wow thanks so much for all these tips! How did you carry your puppy around before you started with walks? I was thinking about a baby carrier, or is that a bit eccentric?!

Honestly we thought about one, I think you can get special puppy carriers? But in the end just carried her under our coats. She only weighed 3-4 kilos and a whippet will be smaller & lighter. I have seen people with dog rucksacks though, so not mad - we just knew she would grow out of it quickly and were too tight, to be honest.

Oh yes and we always took a baby blanket with us in case we needed to be able to put her down somewhere. They were only small walks 10-15 minutes but you could do much longer with a baby carrier!!

 

[JoanneF]

I have more - look up Kikopup on YouTube. She has loads of fabulous short videos on training everything from basic manners to cool tricks.

Normally I'd also say go and sit in on training classes now, to help you see how they are run before your puppy arrives. But that probably isn't possible right now. But if you want us to check out anyone's website, please just shout out. We will give a fair and honest opinion.

Did I mention that we will want photos?

 

[NatashaF]

I have more - look up Kikopup on YouTube. She has loads of fabulous short videos on training everything from basic manners to cool tricks.

Normally I'd also say go and sit in on training classes now, to help you see how they are run before your puppy arrives. But that probably isn't possible right now. But if you want us to check out anyone's website, please just shout out. We will give a fair and honest opinion.

Did I mention that we will want photos?

Lol, I will be here with photos in a few short weeks!

 

[JacksDad]

Jacksdad's post reminded me of something I wish I'd done... As well as getting your dog used to being examined, do some 'dressing up' - if a dog injures itself, it can be helpful for the dog to wear a t shirt or boxers (suitably adapted). Bootees can be useful for paw injuries. And play at putting on bandages/Vetwrap and removing it. My dog thinks having a strip of Vetwrap laid across his leg is scary, and as for wearing socks....

Good one.

The steps I shared for nail trimming, same principles. What is your trick to clip nails of your dogs?

 

[JacksDad]

Possibly more contentious but we started "training" the day after she arrived..

At least with me, nothing controversial about training from day one. Because frankly it is all about training from day one. However, what needs to be trained "now" vs what can wait a day, a week, or even a month, isn't always what people think. For example sit. very useful, but on "day one", or even the first week not really the most critical though.

Puppies grow and change so quickly the priorities do change week to week. last week sit might not be critical, but this week things might change and indicate a higher priority.

So the take away isn't that I am suggesting Melb100 is "wrong", quite the opposite. Rather not everyone is a dog training "geek", so training isn't fun for them, it's something to get through, get done and get onto the good stuff. So prioritizing the things that can cause HIGH frustration...such as dog peeing in the house...over sit for some people makes sense. So if you are that person, do not think you are failing your puppy because you follow a slightly different set of priorities. who cares if your puppy has a gold medal sit, if they are peeing in the house still...right?

my opinion, and it's just my opinion, if you do not find training fun, it's a chore for you, prioritize. focus on the things that cause frustration...house training, chewing that kind of stuff etc. As those things resolve, you start having time for other priorities, add in a new skill for your puppy. maybe it is sit, maybe it is walking with a leash on etc.

When training sit, down, stay, leash walking, recall etc type skills. remember you are working with a puppy. how these look starting out with a puppy who's age is measured in weeks is much different than a 6 month old dog or older. do not expect the same performance, or even the same starting point with your baby puppy.

Melb100 is right, we start training our puppies from the moment they come into our lives, but what the training priorities are...will vary with who you are, who your puppy shows them self to be, how much time you have, how much you enjoy training etc.

The questions and frustrations people expressed in pre covid puppy classes has shaped my thoughts on this. YES!!! we train from day one, but the priority of what we train...might vary from person and puppy to person and puppy.

 

[Ari_RR]

I would recommend ordering some medical equipment (turned out to be very inexpensive) and playing vet with your puppy, so he gets used to stethoscope, otoscope, etc. at home.