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[beaker]

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tissy was the first puppy i tried the 'walking into the hand' tecnique with,

he is simply lovely to stack :wub: stands there like a statue, and if something catches his eye or he gets distracted all i need to do is lightly touch him under his chin and he is back to show pose :thumbsup:

 

[oakmoorehill]

I put the front legs right first by lifting them up and putting them down hopefully with the front legs right . Then I sort out the back end .

To put them on the table I put an arm round the front and the other round the behind the back legs except with Owen who if you pick him up like that tries to jump out of your arms you have to but your arm under his belly else he's likely to jump and give you a face full of whippet :- "

With William its similar to stacking the whippets just on a larger scale althoug you have to keep a tight hold of his lead or he'll move . Can be hard sometimes if he something attracts his atention as he then fidgets

Zoe on the other hand is a pain in the bum its...

move front feet

sort out back feet

put front right again

back again

hold tail

jumps up turns round

kisses judge

only got 3 weeks til her first show she can do it perfect at home but at ringcraft is a little

:devil:

 

[aslan]

Dino has recently decided he likes to jump onto the table himself.

The first time he attempted it - it was as I was bending down to pick him up and he gave me a massive uppercut - nearly knocked me out! And he has taken me by surprise a number of times since - flying up onto the table with no prior warning.

So now as we approach the table I have to tighten his lead and say "No" very sternly.

On cool days or nights he has also been known to throw in a pirouette or two on the corners of the triangle or at the top of the 'up and back', just for the sheer joy of being in the ring in such pleasant weather. )

Generally speaking (for whippets and depending on the ring temperament of the dog) I set the front first by lifting, with the right hand under the chin and the left arm over the left side of the dog and hand under the chest, and lowering the front into position. Then usually, keeping the right hand under the chin to steady the head, I run my left hand down the body (don't need to do this once the dog knows the standing routine well) to the left hind leg and place it by lifting it from the hock. Then shift to the right hind leg and do the same.

When training little baby puppies ie beginning around 4 wks of age, I lift them four square, right hand through the front with the middle two fingers under the chest and the index finger and little finger on the outside of the front legs and the left hand doing the same at the rear end and place them all four feet down on the table at once. I do not remove my hands straight away. And all I want them to do in the beginning is to stand still for a couple of seconds and then I slowly graduate up to the adult process from there.

 

[chelynnah]

I i never let him jump on the table as i`ve heard of some dogs that have overshot and landed badly on the floor   

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that's useful to know, I was always impressed when I see dogs jumping up themselves

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I didn't have a choice. When Teya was about 8 months old I bent down to pick her up just as she decided she was going to jump on the table (never trained her to do it, she just decided). She just about knocked me out and I darn near killed her since I almost didn't catch her.

So from that point on I decided the safest thing was to offer to let her jump and if she did great, and if she didn't then I'd pick her up. She's only refused a handful of times. I do keep my hand in visible over the middle of the table so she can see when she's coming up what she's aiming for, and it's there to catch her if she overshoots.

Wendy

 

[JAX]

Dino has recently decided he likes to jump onto the table himself.
The first time he attempted it - it was as I was bending down to pick him up and he gave me a massive uppercut - nearly knocked me out!  And he has  taken me by surprise a number of times since - flying up onto the table with no prior  warning.

So now as we approach the table I have to tighten his lead and say "No" very sternly. 

On cool days or nights he has also been known to throw in a pirouette or two on the corners of the triangle or at the top of the 'up and back', just for the sheer joy of being in the ring in such pleasant weather.  )

Generally speaking (for whippets and depending on the ring temperament of the dog) I set the front first by lifting, with the right hand under the chin and the left arm over the left side of the dog and hand under the chest, and lowering  the front into position.  Then usually, keeping the right hand under the chin to steady the head, I run my left hand down the body (don't need to do this once the dog knows the standing routine well) to the left hind leg and place it by lifting it from the hock.  Then shift to the right hind leg and do the same.

When training little baby puppies ie beginning around 4  wks of age,  I lift them four square, right hand through the front with the middle two fingers under the chest and the index finger and little finger on the outside of the front legs and the left hand doing the same at the rear end and place them all four feet down on the table at once.  I do not remove my hands straight away.  And all I want them to do in the beginning is to stand still for a couple of seconds and then I slowly graduate up to the adult process from there.

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So we should be seeing some stacked pics then this week

 

[aslan]

You'll be lucky - hubby's not here to help take pics. Might have to wait til next week unless I can rope in a neighbour to help. :teehee:

 

[zilloot]

I should add that when I'm training a puppy I just hold them gently by the chest with my hand resting on their back to steady them until they get the idea and can hold the position for 30 secs or so. I say 'no' gently when they move.

When I move on to adjusting them I 'rock' them from the shoulder or the hip to correct the foot position. I never grab their legs and never, ever touch their feet.

I read somewhere that it's a sign of dominance or aggression for one dog to grab another dogs feet (by mouth I suppose) so most dogs HATE their feet being touched. In the ring situation you want the dog as relaxed as possible and touching feet can be felt as a threat. Touching feet not only makes the dog recoil but ruins their topline too... often just as the judge is approaching :teehee:

Just my tuppen'worth :thumbsup:

 

[neave]

I start by putting Keano front legs in position, i move them by gently touching his legs. I then start on the back ones again gently sliding them into positions. though Keano generally puts his front legs in position himself. I never ever lean over him when sorting his back legs as this tends to make him move. Once he is in position i will quickly peak round the other side of him to make sure that his topline is flat, elbows arn/t bending in or out and that he is not over strenching which so many people tend to do these days. I also never put my hand over his month as this makes him lean back! I have also noticed that many exhibitors seem to gently touch the tuck-up of the dog while on the table! why so this when a) the judge can see you doing it b) it makes your dog move and c) their topline goes from flat to humped

 

[aslan]

  Once he is in position i will quickly peak round the other side of him to make sure that his topline is flatI have also noticed that many exhibitors seem to gently touch the tuck-up of the dog while on the table! why so this when  their topline goes from flat to humped?

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They are probably trying to create the rise over the loin that a whippet should have. Their topline should not be flat.

 

[nina]

Once he is in position i will quickly peak round the other side of him to make sure that his topline is flat
Just a question. Please dont shoot me :b

Why oh why, would you want to make sure his topline is flat

We are talking about whippets here :blink:

Sorry maybe i have missed something :- "

 

[neave]

Once he is in position i will quickly peak round the other side of him to make sure that his topline is flat
Just a question. Please dont shoot me :b

Why oh why, would you want to make sure his topline is flat

We are talking about whippets here :blink:

Sorry maybe i have missed something :- "

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last time i checked whippets didnt have camel backs

! if your dogs back legs are streched out then sometimes it appears your dogs topline is ridged. sometimes this happens when its cold and widy it looks as though they've got the wind up their back. if this is the case the dogs back legs needs to be moved further back

 

[neave]

Once he is in position i will quickly peak round the other side of him to make sure that his topline is flat
Just a question. Please dont shoot me :b

Why oh why, would you want to make sure his topline is flat

We are talking about whippets here :blink:

Sorry maybe i have missed something :- "

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Meant to say

last time i checked whippets didnt have camel backs

! if your dogs back legs are not streched out and are slightly under the body then sometimes it appears your dogs topline is ridged. sometimes this happens when its cold and widy it looks as though they've got the wind up their bums. if this is the case the dogs back legs needs to be moved further back i dont mean that thier toplines should be flat flat just not humped

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Body

A very deep with plenty of heart room, brisket deep, well defined, broad back, firm, somewhat long, showing definite arch over loin but not humped. Loin giving impression of strength and power, ribs well sprung, muscled on back.

www.irishdogs.ie/breeds/whippets.htm

 

[nina]

Meant to saylast time i checked whippets didnt have camel backs

! if your dogs back legs are not streched out and are slightly under the body then sometimes it appears your dogs topline is ridged.  sometimes this happens when its cold and widy it looks as though they've got the wind up their bums.  if this is the case the dogs back legs needs to be moved further back i dont mean that thier toplines should be flat flat just not humped

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Body

A very deep with plenty of heart room, brisket deep, well defined, broad back, firm, somewhat long, showing definite arch over loin but not humped. Loin giving impression of strength and power, ribs well sprung, muscled on back.

This is the Kennel Club Breed Standard

Quote Body

Chest very deep with plenty of heart room. Well filled in front. Brisket deep. Broad, well muscled back, firm, somewhat long, showing graceful arch over the loin but not humped. Ribs well sprung. Loin giving impression of strength and power. Definite tuck up.

Totally agree, whilst no one wants a "hump backed" whippet neither would you want a "flat" table top backed whippet.

Quote "showing graceful arch over the loin" :thumbsup:

 

[05whippet]

Meant to saylast time i checked whippets didnt have camel backs

! if your dogs back legs are not streched out and are slightly under the body then sometimes it appears your dogs topline is ridged.  sometimes this happens when its cold and widy it looks as though they've got the wind up their bums.  if this is the case the dogs back legs needs to be moved further back i dont mean that thier toplines should be flat flat just not humped

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Body

A very deep with plenty of heart room, brisket deep, well defined, broad back, firm, somewhat long, showing definite arch over loin but not humped. Loin giving impression of strength and power, ribs well sprung, muscled on back.

This is the Kennel Club Breed Standard

Quote Body

Chest very deep with plenty of heart room. Well filled in front. Brisket deep. Broad, well muscled back, firm, somewhat long, showing graceful arch over the loin but not humped. Ribs well sprung. Loin giving impression of strength and power. Definite tuck up.

Totally agree, whilst no one wants a "hump backed" whippet neither would you want a "flat" table top backed whippet.

Quote "showing graceful arch over the loin" :thumbsup:

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Oh I don't know,it could do a good job as an occasional table! (w00t)