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Aggression When Picked Up

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APDT are more training rather than behaviour focussed. There is also the APBC.
 
but i put her out [to potty] 5 mins ago for 10 mins. How can i change it?

how can i get her in her crate without handling her?
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Whoops! - U don't PUT pups out to potty; U TAKE them out on a leash, & then U stand there with them - to see precisely what if anything they produce, & note whether it's liquid or solid, how much, & any other details, such as straining to defecate, blood in the pee, plastic bits or toweling shreds in the BM, etc.

ALSO U must be there to deliver the puppy's tidbit for voiding outdoors, right there & then, on the spot. // U can't reward them after they're back in the house! :confused: they'll never get the connection, that way.

If U "put the puppy out", U have no idea if they voided anything, or just sat on the doorstep forlornly waiting to be let in, or got bored & ate slug-bait or a wormy stool delivered by a cat roaming at large. :eek: :bleccchh:
Pups need an adult to provide them with emotional support, & feedback - which means U GO OUT WITH THE PUPPY [or the dog, if an adult is being housetrained]. Especially in low light, infant pups need a grown-up with them for assurance. Many won't void solo after dark, & quite a few won't void outdoors alone even in broad daylight.

Among other things, even if the puppy *does* void without a witness to confirm it, a pup who goes out to toilet OFF A LEASH will not be accustomed to a hovering human when they pee or poop, & Goddess help U if U need a stool or urine sample at some future date, as a shy eliminator is sheer H*** to sample.

U don't "pick her up to put her in her crate" - U have a leash without a loop dragging from her collar, U LEAD her to the crate, U toss a high-value goody into it, & she goes in in her own. If need be, U stand by the crate & feed her a few outside, ONE at a time - then toss one into the crate, or several sequentially, as she goes further in for each succeeding one.

- terry

.
 
.

Whoops! - U don't PUT pups out to potty; U TAKE them out on a leash, & then U stand there with them - to see precisely what if anything they produce, & note whether it's liquid or solid, how much, & any other details, such as straining to defecate, blood in the pee, plastic bits or toweling shreds in the BM, etc.

ALSO U must be there to deliver the puppy's tidbit for voiding outdoors, right there & then, on the spot. // U can't reward them after they're back in the house! :confused: they'll never get the connection, that way.

If U "put the puppy out", U have no idea if they voided anything, or just sat on the doorstep forlornly waiting to be let in, or got bored & ate slug-bait or a wormy stool delivered by a cat roaming at large. :eek: :bleccchh:
Pups need an adult to provide them with emotional support, & feedback - which means U GO OUT WITH THE PUPPY [or the dog, if an adult is being housetrained]. Especially in low light, infant pups need a grown-up with them for assurance. Many won't void solo after dark, & quite a few won't void outdoors alone even in broad daylight.

Among other things, even if the puppy *does* void without a witness to confirm it, a pup who goes out to toilet OFF A LEASH will not be accustomed to a hovering human when they pee or poop, & Goddess help U if U need a stool or urine sample at some future date, as a shy eliminator is sheer H*** to sample.

- terry

.
Okay will do :)
 
You said in another post that you do training with Olive and Doris separately , sit, stay etc...how is she when you are doing this? Is she ok with the commands and does them happily without being aggressive?
 
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I'm assuming, Violet, that U're in the UK? - which shire, or is there a nearby city / town?

Many APDT-uk members do behavior modification, U must look them up here - by area:
APDT

then look at their listed specialties & qualifications - for instance, under BERKSHIRE, the 1st 3 trainers are also
Certified Clinical Animal Behaviorists. That's just one step below a veterinary behaviorist, AKA board-certified behavior specialist DVM.

However, i'd still be asking a vet to examine her & do basic tests - like a full blood-panel, among others, in order to eliminate medical causes.

...& per behavior, there's also the IAABC, a global organization; their certified k9 Consultants are very well-regarded.
Find Dog, Cat, Parrot and Horse Behavior Consultants | IAABC

plug in the species of concern, the country where U live, & see the list. :)

- terry

.
 
You said in another post that you do training with Olive and Doris separately , sit, stay etc...how is she when you are doing this? Is she ok with the commands and does them happily without being aggressive?
She is fine nearly knows them off by heart, Yes she does them without aggressive behaviour. Anything for a treat :)
 
.

I'm assuming, Violet, that U're in the UK? - which shire, or is there a nearby city / town?

Many APDT-uk members do behavior modification, U must look them up here - by area:
APDT

then look at their listed specialties & qualifications - for instance, under BERKSHIRE, the 1st 3 trainers are also
Certified Clinical Animal Behaviorists. That's just one step below a veterinary behaviorist, AKA board-certified behavior specialist DVM.

However, i'd still be asking a vet to examine her & do basic tests - like a full blood-panel, among others, in order to eliminate medical causes.

...& per behavior, there's also the IAABC, a global organization; their certified k9 Consultants are very well-regarded.
Find Dog, Cat, Parrot and Horse Behavior Consultants | IAABC

plug in the species of concern, the country where U live, & see the list. :)

- terry

.

Okay I will do thanks Terry :)
 
Doris has attacked me but i didn't pick her up all i did was walk past her when she was in the kitchen. I'm getting seriously worried, but i don't know if i should wait before contacting a behaviourist. What do you think?
 
No, you shouldn't wait. She's not going to improve if you don't know how to deal with the behaviour.
Okay, should i send an Email? Or ring.... I'm a little bit cautious of asking a complete stranger to help with a rescue dogs puppy and i don't know if the trainer has experience with Doris' behavior.
 
What do you know about them? Are they a member of any association? If you post a link to their website here we could give an opinion.

I would certainly want to grill them on their methods before letting them anywhere near my dog.

Remember, a trainer may only have experience of the 'sit, stay, come' sort of training. You need a behaviourist - though anyone can call themselves a behaviourist so just because they do, doesn't mean that they have anything like the knowledge you need.
 
If you pick someone from one of the good organisations that have previously mentioned, they have been accredited by these organisations so you can have confidence. However, dog behaviour is an unregulated profession which basically means that my 90 year old neighbour who has never owned a dog in her life could if she wished set herself up in business as a behaviourist. So if you pick someone who advertises in the yellow pages but isn't a member of an association such as those mentioned then you could end up with someone who doesn't understand. Ask questions - what methods will they use? What experience do they have? How long have they been in practice? If anyone mentions alpha theory or dominance, walk away as these theories are widely discredited as they were based on poor understanding of canine behaviour.
 
I'm thinking of using the APBC as recommended by @JoanneF :) Thank you everyone who has commented, and help!
 
Doris has not been aggressive when being picked up, but when a new person goes to stroke/touch/go near her. is there anything i can do to help her with this fear?
 
She probably feels overwhelmed by a big stranger approaching. Just tell people not to touch her unless she approaches them. Then if she does, ask them to apply the 5 second rule - if she initiates contact, they can stroke her for 5 seconds then stop. If she asks for more, they do another 5 seconds then stop. They can only repeat for as long as she continues to seek contact, 5 seconds at a time.
 
Doris has not been aggressive when being picked up, but when a new person goes to stroke/touch/go near her.
Is there anything i can do to help her with this fear?
.

put the control / CHOICE of whether she interacts with someone, firmly in her own paws. :)
Teach her to target on cue, using a marker for improving approximations of the goal behavior, & tasty small rewards; then teach a cue that asks her to target a specific non-threatening part of a stranger's wardrobe, or their anatomy.

For a scared dog, i'd probly teach them 'Shoe', as shoes carry a tremendous amount of info about where we've been, & also about ourselves as individuals - gender, age, state of health, etc.
Always tell the person she's approaching *not* to attempt to touch her, lean over her / loom above her, stare at her, etc; they should pretend she's not there, ignore her, & let her approach / target / sniff AND retreat.

Once she has approached them initially, her 1st terror should be greatly lessened; later, when her confidence has grown over weeks & months, let HER decide if she wants to be touched. They squat or bend & offer a hand, SHE comes over to sniff & if she stands still, they can touch her somewhere SAFE - approaching from under her head, where she can see their hand at all times.
A dog's chest is a good spot to scratch or rub gently - it's very soothing. :)

- terry

.
 
She probably feels overwhelmed by a big stranger approaching. Just tell people not to touch her unless she approaches them. Then if she does, ask them to apply the 5 second rule - if she initiates contact, they can stroke her for 5 seconds then stop. If she asks for more, they do another 5 seconds then stop. They can only repeat for as long as she continues to seek contact, 5 seconds at a time.
She approaches wagging her tail, then sniffs and then growls.
 

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