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doris said:
great posts, I'm loving this thread :thumbsup:
and if anyone wants to show some examples of shoulder angles, I for one would be very interested to see them :- "

like the ones earlier with rear angulation :oops:

Doris, your wish is my command! Meet some of my old, deceased dogs with their angles drawn in!!!

Bear in mind that angulation is a way that people describe the imaginary lines drawn between points. Bones aren't straight--bones are curved. But the lines drawn between points show if structure is balanced front to rear, and angulation is sufficent for the standard of that breed (as some want a lot of angulation, such as the Dachshund or Alsatian, while others want less angulation).

I will start with some old champions of mine (no more nicking photos of other people's dogs for me!) who were reckoned to have very good shoulder angles in their day....

Here is a 19 1/2" bitch who had beautifully laid- back shoulders, balanced angles, and as you can see, the plumb bob line is as described earlier in this thread. She has about a 100 degree angle, but her layback is 45 degrees from vertical. The rear angle is matching. The only problem is that her upper arm (humerus) was a tad short, but she moved well in front. I believe this front would pass muster in the UK, or anywhere.

katielines.jpg


This dog below had a very fine shoulder and angle (also 100 degrees). He had great return of upper arm and a very long upper arm and he had beautiful reach in his profile movement. He also had an extreme rear to match and look how far behind the point of the hip the front toes of his hind foot are. The bones of his humerus (upper arm) correspond to the bones of his second thigh (tibia) and the second thigh is long. This dog had a beautiful front to go over, but a very extreme rear. These things tend to be connected. It's hard to get the rear moderate when you have a front end like his:

harrisonlines.jpg


Here is a dog whose photo, unfortunately, is overexposed, but I think he'd be pleasing to most. He has balanced angles, which are also about 100 degrees, and again, the plumb bob line from point of hip to front of foot is close to flush. He is not as extreme in rear as the above example.

smittylines.jpg


The above dog was shown successfully under both the FCI and AKC standard.

Now, I have two from my dual-purpose lineages and you will immediately see a difference. The first bitch is one who was a very fine courser and a very fast racer. I finished her in the AKC pretty quickly. She has balanced angulation, but look at how much more open in angles she is at each end! We have added 10 degrees, and she is a 110 degree angle. In the US, we often refer to this as a good "racing front".

amberlines.jpg


Her plumb bob line holds true. I must say this has been generally a good predictor, along with hipbones the same height off the ground as the shoulder, of speed in my show line. The above bitch made up easily because she was flawless in gait on the line, and although her side gait was not "big", it was level and balanced. She was a very balanced versatility dog. The kind of dog who can be a champion, but is not a top specials or group dog, as her lack of angulation hurts her in side gait and also in terms of the profile she presents when stacked. But many admired dogs here have 110 degree angles. They are great all-around dogs who can get titles in various pursuits.

Now, here is another--not a very good photo since she was in very lean racing weight at the time, but this is probably the fastest racer I've ever bred:

smithereenslines.jpg


Her angle is a bit more open, still. 115 degrees at best. The biggest difference is that the whole assembly is shifted just a hair forward, which gives a slightly throatier neck and less complete fill than the fawn bitch had. But she is still balanced in angles and was a fine mover at the trot and a very very good producer. But I was not able to finish her in the USA. She earned her Canadian championship in good style.

Now, for a bad example. I'm sorry to say this dog, who I did have a hand in, is an example of probably why a lot of people elsewhere take a dim view of US dogs. He is very elegant in neck and head, and he is flashy in color, with great pigment, but he is not well made, not at all.

raleighlines.jpg


As you can see, his shoulder angle (well over 120 degrees) is more open than his rear angle (110 degrees), and so he is dreadfully unbalanced. He is much too straight in front, and this shows in his more upright pastern. He was a fun dog to show because he was glamorous and judges liked him, but he was neutered thereafter and so was a dead end, due to lack of correct structure. You had to pick just the right speed to gait him or he would bump and hitch due to lack of balance.

IMO, the ideal shoulder angle for a Whippet who is a show dog first and foremost is between 100 and 105 degrees, and for a dog who is meant to also have a bit of speed but still be sound and finishable, you need to look at something which is between about 110-115 degrees. Anything more than that and it's too straight for the show ring. 120 degrees would be the outer limits of what's showable, but that would require a rear to match, flawless soundness, and maybe extreme beauty points of head, neck and underline and a high degree of showmanship.

The computer is great. It's a light screen and you can put white paper over it and trace and draw and have a lot of fun. Find some photos of dogs you like and check out their angles and their balance. You might be very surprised!!!!
 
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patsy said:
Hello Gail, In my humble opinion the breed standard regarding height did need changing, to breed better specimens they did need a bit more size, without going over the top, in an ideal world my wish would be for a 20inch dog and a 19inch bitch, this is what we try to breed to. Yes I have had them bigger not in bitches but old special Brew as lovely as he was I would be the first to admit I would have liked him smaller.
  Now to my beloved Jason (Classic Jazz) he is as you say carrying Sportingfield and Nevedith his dam the lovely First Lady was bred by Rivarco and believe me Jason was a very expensive production, Hilary was taken by Mauro to America to be mated to Jazz Fest so you can imagine the cost, and to get the blood behind Hilary. So credit must go to Rivarco. without Jason we would not have had Our top whippet 2007 at Courthil and runner up top bitch Lady Love is his daughter. I am very proud of him and he only mated one bitch last year.He won his last C.C and best in show from veteran 18mths ago and still looks great. He is now longer at public stud, as I feel he has been very under rated.

I consider myself to be very fortunate to have been allowed to use Jason on my bitch, I was so thrilled with the quality of the pups that I did a repeat. I can see his quality in the two girls I have here at home and in the others that are in loving homes, not only do they conform to the standard, they also have fantastic temperaments. They also move correctly.
 
Juley said:
I suppose the point I was trying to make is that, yes, we all interpret the standard in our own way and have a "type" we may prefer BUT when selecting what to breed from or too should not let our own preference for one particular feature overide the general picture.  i do believe we should try to endeavour to breed to the standard not alter the standard to fit the breed.

Changing the wording of the standard does not necessarily mean "changing the standard". As others already pointed out it is worded in a way left to very wide interpretation. It would be good if we would have it to say for instance: "height at wither to be approximately 9/10 (or what ever proportion) of the length of the body" instead of "should stand over lot of ground".
 
Karen gave an exceptional lecture at one of our Nationals (was it Boston?!) which showed all the different angles and lines of the balanced whippet. Not only was it on paper, but she also marked up with colored dots and tape on live dogs. It was most fascinating. I learned a lot and I've been tracing dogs ever since. Pictures will deceive you until you do the lines on some dogs!

Kristen

PS: The dual purpose red brindle bitch is the mother to the red dog in my signature. Its amazing how quickly a little infusion of European blood can change a generation.
 
Angulation should be measured through middle of the bone. For front the line is from wither to the middle of shoulder joint, and from there to middle of elbow.

skeletal_structure.jpg
 
Seraphina said:
Juley said:
I suppose the point I was trying to make is that, yes, we all interpret the standard in our own way and have a "type" we may prefer BUT when selecting what to breed from or too should not let our own preference for one particular feature overide the general picture.  i do believe we should try to endeavour to breed to the standard not alter the standard to fit the breed.

Changing the wording of the standard does not necessarily mean "changing the standard". As others already pointed out it is worded in a way left to very wide interpretation. It would be good if we would have it to say for instance: "height at wither to be approximately 9/10 (or what ever proportion) of the length of the body" instead of "should stand over lot of ground".

The US standard does say our dogs should be as long as tall, or "somewhat" longer (and everyone knows by tall they mean "height at withers"). So, to measure square is correct, and to measure somewhat longer than square is also correct. But...what's "somewhat"???? For me, I go back and measure numerous dogs who were key to the development of the breed and widely admired in the ring, and I can't go above an inch longer than square. But there are some slightly longer dogs who were valuable producers. Extreme examples of the breed may have some difficulty in the ring but be very good producers because their progeny tend more towards the mean than their parents, but remain on the more impressive side of the average.

I'm a wonky, geeky, engineer's daughter and I enjoy having things spelled out in terms of proportions and ratios if they are really important. If not, then I feel like it's more along the lines of a suggestion..... :- "
 
I would be very interested to see what is people's interpretation of stifles well bent; The hocks are well let down and close to the ground..

Because I have not seen one single example of dog that could have line from his hip bone to hit his toes and has the above qualities.

On this skeleton the red line goes from his hip bone to his toes but by any stretch of imagination his stifle could possibly be called well bent and his hock close to ground

steep_rear1.jpg
 
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I have to admit I have always struggled with the term hocks well let down and close to the ground. What does close to the gound mean. The only time my dog's hocks are close to the ground is when they are sitting down. Karen, please one of your pictures. :thumbsup: to help me.

This is a superb thread.

Jenny
 
I'd like to add my thanks to Karen and Seraphina for going into such detail on angles - it's a great help to see them illustrated. I don't think I've naturally got a very analytical brain , and I probably just see an overall picture of a dog and whether or not it looks right to me- so I do need to learn why things look correct or not. Coming from years with horses I find terms like " standing naturally over a lot of ground " and " well let down hocks " make complete sense - although I might struggle to explain them coherently to someone else.

Val
 
I have to admit I have always struggled with the term hocks well let down and close to the ground. What does close to the gound mean.
Length of hock is determined in relation to the length of the other bones in the leg.

Long hocks (as in rabbits - where the distance from stifle to hock is about the same as hock to pad) are used for early speed and quick getaways but the speed cannot be maintained for very long. This is why a rabbit must take off quickly, duck and weave and go to ground as soon as possible when being pursued. If he is forced to "go the distance" with a whippet - he loses out.

Hocks well let down will give the ability to maintain speed for longer. It takes less power to operate a well let down hock than it does to operate a long hock.

Difference in hock length between whippets is not as obvious at first glance as is the difference in hock length between a rabbit and a whippet. Length of hock is relative in the dog itself. What I mean is you can't just go and measure all the hocks on a number of dogs and the shortest set are the best. Height of the dog will also play a part. A 22 inch dog will probably have a longer hock than an 18 inch bitch. That doesn't make her hocks the best - it is all in relation to the other bones in the leg.
 
Seraphina .....Thank you SO much for the diagrams and illustrations and for your explanations about angles etc. I am learning so much reading this thread and it is very good of you to share your knowledge in this way.

Thanks also to Karen and others for sharing their views.

Cheers :thumbsup:

Pauline
 
thank you everyone for all the very interesting and well explained articles on here, what an excellet thread :thumbsup:
 
seaspot_run said:
smittylines.jpg

The above dog was shown successfully under both the FCI and AKC standard.
I LOVE this dog!

Karen, Seraphina, thank You so much, what a useful conversation! :) :thumbsup:
 
this thread is fantastic, iv learnt so much from reading it and and the diagrams are great, thankyou :thumbsup:
 
What a nice thread :)

Next examples (click to see larger image):

Very deep angulation in front, ca 90 degrees



High on hocks (usually the length of hocks is equal to half of the length of front legs up to elbows, or even less)

 
I'm really enjoying this thread. One thing to note is that angles can be distorted in pictures by how the dog is standing. I notice in my dog (US bred), who has what I'd consider a moderate rear, that when he's standing naturally he does have a straight line from hip to toes. This isn't a very good picture but you get the point.

nemoangles.jpg


-Wendy
 
Natalia said:
What a nice thread :)
Next examples (click to see larger image):

Very deep angulation in front, ca 90 degrees



geshack.us/img126/6530/hocksra6.th.jpg[/img][/url]

Yes this dog does certainly have lot of angle on his front, but the lines you put on him do not follow the bones :) You started in the correct spot at the wither but ended at his sternum, not in the middle of the shoulder joint. Then you went from there to the point of elbow, see the red line on the skeleton drawing. I know it is difficult some time to find the right spots on photos. But if the line is drawn from the point of elbow it is way off the bone :)

correction.jpg

front_bones.jpg
 
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aslan said:
Length of hock is determined in relation to the length of the other bones in the leg.
Long hocks (as in rabbits - where the distance from stifle to hock is about the same as hock to pad) are used for early speed and quick getaways but the speed cannot be maintained for very long.  This is why a rabbit must take off quickly, duck and weave and go to ground as soon as possible when being pursued.  If he is forced to "go the distance" with a whippet - he loses out.

Hocks well let down will give the ability to maintain speed for longer. It takes less power to operate a well let down hock than it does to operate a long hock.

OK, what you are talking about is that the distance from hock joint to the ground, which should not be too long. However hock as a such is actually the bit from stifle (the knee) to the hock joint (the heel). So together with stifle (the knee) well bent and the hock close to ground that means to me some thing like the picture below, rather than hock so upright that the line dropped from the hip bone hits the paw :)

Although I like mine to be somewhere between.

correction2.jpg
 
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Look what i managed to dig out :)

This what the angles suppose to be on IG. I think that we agree that Whippet has to be substantially different :)

Italian_Greyhound.jpg
 

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